Gluttony grabs hold in this kitschy kitchen, and it doesn’t let go until the band plays its last bluesy, rockabilly note (usually about 1am). So skip the brisket, ignore the chicken, and resist filling up on the addictive sweet-potato fries: You need to reserve your hunger for “The Rib Sampler.” It’s an intimidating pile of baby back ribs, spareribs and rib tips. But don’t worry: The pink, smoky meat pulls off the bone easily and the full flavors inspire bite after bite, so you’ll have no trouble cleaning your plate.
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