The waiters at this Greektown staple have lit so many plates of saganaki that their spirited cries of “Opa!” have dwindled to bored, tired whimpers. And who can blame them? Parthenon claims to have invented the flaming cheese, so it’s supposedly been doing this shtick longer than anyone. As far as saganaki goes, it’s pretty good. So is the garlicky gyro meat (another dish the restaurant claims to have invented, having the first patent on a rotating cone rotisserie). But the less-ordered suckling pig is where this kitchen really shows off its experience.
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