Smokin M’s

There’s nothing about a strip-mall location on a generic stretch of Forest Park that suggests good eating, but the born-and-bred Chicago brothers who run this tiny counter-service joint do their best to deliver respectable barbecue nonetheless. Ribs emerge with a noticeable aura of smoke and a good dose of grease; with pork-laden beans and a slice of sweet potato pie, they make for a great meal. Chopped beef, pork shoulder and hot links don’t always fare as well, especially later in the evening when most of the meats’ juices have disappeared. So take advantage of the liberal BYOB policy—a shot of whiskey helps even dry ’cue go down smooth.