The unassuming restaurant feels more like the waiting room at a doctor's office—decor includes fish tanks and stacks of magazines—but the food transcends the surroundings. Start with fried dried beef, a more supple version of beef jerky that comes with an addictive lime, fish sauce and chili dipping sauce. The menu focuses on excellent pan-fried noodles and rice dishes, like pad kee mao, which has lightly crisp edges and spicy black bean sauce, and tender, roast duck tossed with basil and served over rice.
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