If Greektown makes you feel as if you’re drowning in a sea of bad food and obnoxious tourists, here’s your life jacket. The Kontos family serves food that is impeccably fresh, importing organic olive oil and oregano from the family farm in Sparta. Look for starters like sprightly spanakopita to hit your palate with fresh herb flavor. Like most of the seafood, the whole red snapper needs nothing more than a squeeze of lemon to show off its delicate flesh and subtle flavor. You may jump a little every time a ball of flaming saganaki cheese erupts at nearly every table, but if your nerves can handle it, your taste buds will thank you.
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