Opart Thai House (CLOSED)

Two decades old and still bustling, this Thai stalwart thumbs its nose at the chowhounds running around town for ant eggs and crispy caterpillars. No need for secret menus here—a broad range of staples is done well and at a good price. Wine-toting couples swap forkfuls of shu-mai (steamed shrimp dumplings with a Thai soy sauce), tart naem sod (minced chicken tossed in a limey dressing with peanuts and raw ginger) and a filling and flavorful rendition of pad ped pla dook (hunks of crispy catfish sautéed in red curry paste with green beans and eggplant).