Northern City

Whether by coincidence or demographics, two restaurants specializing in the food of Northern China (i.e., Dongbei, between Beijing and Siberia) recently popped up within a block of each other in Bridgeport. So far, the other, Home Style Taste, is getting better reviews than this spot, where the immense menu covers every Americanized staple (including crunchy fried orange chicken), then veers into regional specialities like fatty, pounded-thin lamb marinated in cumin and chilies. With more misses (grease-soaked, mystery-meat pot stickers; slimy bok choy with mushrooms) than hits, dine here at your own risk.