Nando Milano Trattoria

The stakes for a neighborhood Italian restaurant of this ilk are, for better or for worse, not especially high. So if you're looking for charm and/or carbo-loading, this may be the place for you. If you have even the most minimal standards for Italian food, though, Nando Milano will be a disappointment. Tomatoes are of the whitish, tasteless version; asparagus topped with two fried eggs is completely unseasoned; gnocchi is wet and gummy. The best dish on the menu is hunks of ripe melon strewn with marbled prosciutto. What are we to make of this? That maybe Nando Milano should steer clear of the stove top.