Milt's Barbecue for the Perplexed

This completely kosher barbecue restaurant donates 100 percent of its profits to charity, so it's tough to find fault with the place. Until you spend money—sometimes lots of money—on the food. The grilled romaine salad is more accurately described as wilted, and a brisket sandwich is filled with thin strips of beef that more resemble leather than barbecue. Chicken wings are pedestrian but inoffensive, and the braised short ribs are okay (if you can get over paying $35 for this measly portion). Nevertheless, eating at Milt's feels like an act of charity.