Mei Shung

The accolades on the wall of this restaurant suggest that it’s one of the best, most innovative Chinese spots in the city. But look closer—the articles are all from 1993. Since then, it doesn’t appear that the restaurant has changed much, neither in the dining room nor on the menu. But even if it no longer feels new, it is at least still solid. Because some Chinese basics—pudgy pork-stuffed dumplings; salty, crispy soft-shell crabs with stir-fried chiles; sautéed bean curd with ground pork—don’t have an expiration date.