Sure, there's a lot that's Disney-esque about this red sauce spot from Brinker (the company that owns Chili’s), from the fake black-and-white family photos to the red-checkered tablecloths. But, as much as we hate to admit it, we find ourselves wanting to get our hands on those family-sized platters of puffy gnocchi, dense eggplant parmesan and juicy chicken marsala. What we don't crave—or understand, in this city of so many fine Italian options—are the never-ending mob scenes.
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