Larsa’s Mediterranean & Pizza

Give a Middle Eastern chef a pizza oven and he comes up with laham ajeen—a crispy, paper-thin, pizzalike starter topped with parsley-kicked, finely ground beef, tomatoes, onions and peppers. The fresh-flavor train keeps rolling with the entrées: juicy marinated chicken kebabs, kefta kebabs, beef shawarma and charbroiled catfish stand out. Each comes with a veggie soup, meant to be spooned over the fluffy rice for added oomph. Though the baklava is tempting, we head to the grocer next door for a pint of hard-to-find Mashti Malone rosewater ice cream.