La Perla Tapatia

When there’s a tiny Mexican storefront on nearly every corner in the city, how do you figure out which deserve your cash? Go where the scent permeates and the dollar stretches for miles. This two-person crew doles out crispy, meat-stuffed tortas; king-size Suiza (Swiss cheese) burritos packed with grilled steak, crumbly ground beef or pulled chicken; and big bowls of fresh seafood caldos (soup). The chiles rellenos tacos and the Mexican gyros torta are packed with flavor but lack spice, remedied with one of the spicy housemade salsas.