La Palapa

Though this Mexican seafood spot is named after the Spanish word for a thatched-roof beach hut, the dust kicked onto the outdoor patio by cars speeding through the McKinley Park ’hood means you won’t mistake it for paradise. That is until you dig into limey ceviche pescado and coctel mixto pulpo camarón, the latter bathing tender chunks of octopus and plump shrimp in a spicy V8-like tomato sauce that trumps the ketchupy versions found elsewhere.