Diners who groaned about the modern interpretations of Indian food at a certain West Loop restaurant across the street from Jaipur will be happy to find this straightforward bearer of standards. But vets of Devon will likely put this newcomer in the “tablecloth” category of Viceroy and Tiffin, meaning you’ll really have to push to get sufficient heat and the cream-laden gravies all fall into a similar flavor profile. Still, the mixed grill of tandoor-cooked shrimp, chicken and minced lamb kebabs is satisfying; coupled with delicious garlic naan and a cold beer it’s a good substitute for Loopers looking to stay close to home.
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