Unlike most of its steam-table-toting peers, this Filipino spot doesn’t offer gloopy meats in skinned-over gravy. Instead, tender pancit noodles sautéed with golden chicken, garlicky lumpia Shanghai rolls and mixed adobo chicken and pork in silky vinegar-tinged gravy are dished out fresh. The tocino, a magnificent mountain of neon-orange pork lacquered with a smoky-sweet glaze, may be the best in town.
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