Phil’s Last Stand Anyone who calls himself "Fat Phil" must know a thing or two about hot dogs—namely that they're better with a little char. At this Ukrainian Village late-night spot, the char dog ($4) comes split on the ends and rolled up with a healthy serving of hand-cut fries. The neon-glow relish is swapped for a more naturally colored variety—otherwise, the char dog comes fully loaded with the standard Chicago fixings. It's a nice balance of toppings, with thin-cut tomatoes, a generous portion of chopped onions and a pickle that doesn’t overwhelm the dog. In this house of gluttonous eats, the restraint is remarkable.—Martha Williams
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