Hema’s Kitchen

As one of the first Indian chefs to draw American diners to Devon, Hema Potla is still treated with grandmotherly respect and adoration. Since her start 15 years ago, she’s moved from her tiny Oakley Street dive into a bigger, brighter space on the main drag, and some say the flavors faded along with the Indian clientele. Still, heat-seeking diners will get blasted on request, while crowd-pleasing old favorites remain reliable, particularly creamy yellow lentils with silky spinach, eggplant with lamb and tender chicken in “Haryali,” a gravy of cilantro, curry leaves, peppers, yogurt, ginger and garlic.