At dinner, Brendan Sodikoff’s high-low restaurant transforms deli foods (chopped chicken liver and bologna sandwiches) and turns the old-fashioned griddled burger into a thing of wonder. But by virtue of its evening-only hours, it was still tough to think of this place as a “diner.” That perception is shifting with the restaurant’s new weekend brunch, where a small menu of fanatically good dishes like chilaquiles (also on the late-night menu; portioned to feed a linebacker), latke-like hash browns with duck-heart gravy and an exemplary full English breakfast (now on the dinner menu, too) will either kill you or—one prefers to think—make you stronger. Click through the slide show as we break down the components of the dish.
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