Emperor’s Choice

For two decades, this simple dining room has been the safe bet for such Americanized favorites as chop suey and egg foo yong. But take a cue from the smiling fish on the menu: Seafood’s the real draw. Sea creatures from shrimp to lobster are fresh, especially the fish of the day; order it steamed whole with ginger and onion. Spicy salt-and-pepper prawns are huge and crispy, and go great with garlicky young pea shoots listed on the specials menu.