Dorado (CLOSED)

The concept is Mexican-French (chef Luis Perez spent 18 years cooking French food before opening this spot in 2004), but at first glance this menu seems pretty straight-up Mexican. A closer read reveals that the nachos are topped with juicy, smoky morsels of duck and the chiles rellenos are stuffed with plump shrimp and tiny bay scallops. When it comes to more traditional fare, a spinach-and-cheese chimichanga gets herbal zip from a healthy dose of oregano. So seek out the fusion and don’t look back—until dessert, that is. The tres leches doesn’t have an ounce of French in it, but it’s the right way to end.