Daddy-O's Jerk Pit

You’ll meet Daddy-O right away as each regular who walks through the door hollers out nearly the same carryout order: “Half jerk, dark, Daddy.” He’ll scoot to the aquarium smoker near the front door, slide back a pane and pull out a jerk-spiced chicken, plop it on a plate and pack it up with plantains, beans and rice. Add on an order of the curry goat or braised oxtails and he may just toss in a cup of gumbo.