Chez Moi

Dominique Tougne hopped from one standard bistro (Bistro 110) to take over another one (Café Bernard), but the restaurant he built at times defies expectations. The space is light and airy, and whereas most bistros simply slap salad Lyonnaise on the menu, here appetizers include eel stew and caul-fat-wrapped pig’s feet. Unfortunately, the excitement of seeing new takes on bistro fare is dampened by faulty execution: overcooked meats, oversalted sauces. Desserts like warm canelés with rhubarb jam ease the pain—but not enough.