Chef’s Station

Train enthusiasts and kitsch lovers will adore the ultracutesy decor of this restaurant in the Davis Metra station: The walls are painted to look like denim; the flatware and napkins are tucked into jeans pockets; the menu is on a clipboard; diners sit in armchairs; and copper pipes serve as light fixtures. We groaned a bit, but once we looked at the wine list (handily categorized by flavor profile) and tried some dishes (don’t miss the rich goat cheese–and–artichoke tart or the velvety braised short ribs with blackberry-mint sauce), we would have been on board even if our server wore engineer’s overalls and gave us our change from his belt.