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If you smell something delicious when you walk into this Puerto Rican diner, don’t bother trying to figure out what it is. It could be any number of the greasy-spoon comfort foods that are dished up here daily: chunky, tomato-heavy goat stew or garlicky mofongo, savory balls of plantains studded with corn. Then again, it could be the oniony jibaro (dubbed “hee-ba-roe” on the English menu), a gooey cheese-steak–like sandwich that substitutes plantains for bread. So take a seat—looks like you’ve got some research to do.