Bar Umbriago (CLOSED)

You'll be forgiven for thinking the menu at this oversized Italian restaurant looks familiar. Its selections of salumi, cheese and small plates (charred octopus with gigante beans, pork belly with grilled peppers) are on point with the rustic Mediterranean trend on view at places like the Purple Pig. Yet the high hopes the menu induces dissipate when the food (e.g., an unforgivably sad escarole salad) appears, suggesting that perhaps the Rosebud group, which owns Bar Umbriago, would have been better off sticking to what it does best: pastas like the rich, tender goat-cheese gnocchi with sweet caramelized fennel and delicate fennel sprigs.