This spartan Rogers Park spot’s centerpiece is its toné, a traditional Georgian oven (something like a brick igloo) that stands, kicking up fierce heat, in the middle of the bakery floor. Baked against the interior walls of this rustic-seeming equipment are breads and pies that are simple but delicious. We recommend the hachapuri, a filling round of buttery pastry wrapped around three cheeses that are mild with a hint of funk. Perhaps best of all, though, is the lavash, a large disc of flatbread that’s crusty and soft in just the right proportion; it’s fabulous dipped in lemon-spiked tahini or just eaten, in torn chunks straight from its brown paper wrapping.
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