Ada’s Famous Deli (CLOSED)

If the mark of a good Jewish deli is the schmaltz, Ada’s is in good shape: Circles of oil glimmer on the top of the matzo-ball soup, and the peppery hot pastrami is rich with soft fat. Plus, it has decent bagels for schmearing thick layers of cream cheese. The only area that isn’t so schmaltzy? The service, which, in a rejection of true deli culture, is downright sweet.