Chicagoans, as you’re likely aware, have a lot of opinions on hot dogs. But arguing about ketchup is passé at this point—instead, why don’t we debate the merits of hot dog-flavored ice cream?
The unsettling treat was unveiled at the Museum of Ice Cream Chicago opening this weekend, part of the exhibit’s multi-room, ice cream-themed array of interactive experiences. It’s not the first time someone’s dared to whip up a hot dog-flavored ice cream (some light research reveals attempts by Oscar Mayer and Brooklyn-based scoop shop the Social), but it might be the first time anyone’s presented their beefy creation in such a straightforward manner: Served in a pink poppy seed bun and dressed up in mustard and pickles, the museum’s ice cream hot dog is a serviceable-looking imitation of the real deal, albeit without most of the requisite toppings.
“We worked with a Chicago-based bakery to make the buns, and then there’s a hot dog-flavored soft serve inside,” explains Maryellis Bunn, the museum’s creator and co-CEO. “And no ketchup, Chicago-style.”
Staff say the flavor has been polarizing so far. One attendee told me she politely spit her first bite into the nearest garbage can; another admitted he wouldn’t even try it for fear of gagging. Still, there’s something alluring about the salty-sweet combo—could hot ice cream actually work?
If you’re asking this hot dog eater, the answer is a hesitant yes, especially if you’re not expecting a perfect simulacrum of a Chicago-style dog. The meaty soft serve—it’s actually vegetarian, in case you were wondering—hits all the smoky, spiced notes of an all-beef sausage with a pleasantly sweet undercurrent, while the rosy bun (custom made by Joliet-based company Milano Bakery) is pillowy and dotted with a respectable sprinkling of poppy seeds.
But what really sells the hot dog flavor are the briny toppings. A drizzle of mustard and some petite gherkins (subbing in for dill pickle spears) provide welcome hits of acid that counteract any of the hot dog flavor’s potential for queasy sweetness. Whether the ice cream could stand up to a full slate of Chicago-style, dragged-through-the-garden toppings is another question—and, perhaps thankfully, one we don’t have to answer.
Itching to sample some hot dog-flavored ice cream yourself? The Museum of Ice Cream, located at 435 N Michigan Ave, is open daily from 10am–7pm (closed Tuesdays). Tickets include unlimited treats from five ice cream stations throughout the museum, which means you can return for as much hot dog-flavored indulgence as you can muster in one visit.
Correction: An earlier version of this article incorrectly stated the soft serve isn’t vegetarian.