Families and friends across the country will gather next week for heaping plates of food, football on the big screen and awkward conversation at the dinner table. For many people, it will be the first time in a while they’ve reconnected with familiar faces. And honestly, that’s exactly what Chicago’s most popular Christmas market is like.
Christkindlmarket officially opens for the season today. The annual tradition will once again take over Daley Plaza in the Loop and RiverEdge Park in Aurora through December 24. Because Wrigley Field is hosting the NHL Winter Classic next month, there will be no market at Gallagher Way in 2024. If you’ve (somehow) never been, the German-style bazaar is a staple of Chicago’s holiday season, complete with food and drink vendors, gift shops and festive vibes.
This year, I was invited to ‘Twas the Night Before Christkindlmarket, a ticketed event where guests had the opportunity to preview all of the offerings. I woke up Thursday morning and was greeted by a blanket of white powder outside. Snow had been forecasted, but I—maybe naively—expected a light dusting. Not an actual snow storm.
Alas, I have a knack for choosing to go to Christkindlmarket on days with less-than-ideal (in my opinion, at least) weather, so this was on brand. However, as the day went on, snow turned to rain, which is an even worse condition for eating and drinking while standing around outside.
I arrived promptly at 5pm and was given a quick lowdown: Every vendor would be open and there would be live entertainment and an official opening ceremony. As I entered the market, a wave of nostalgia hit me; it was like seeing an old friend again. Despite the wet climate, spirits were high among attendees. ’Tis the season, after all.
I typically visit Christkindlmarket with friends every year and know what to expect: huge crowds. Fortunately, since this was an exclusive preview, there were very few people at the start—a much welcome sight for my eyes. I was able to wander around freely and take photos and look at all the vendors. For Christkindlmarket vets, there aren’t a lot of surprises this year. And I’m sure for most, that’s fine.
I made one lap around the market before heading for my favorite corner: the Baked Cheese Haus. On a regular day, guests can get a whiff of pungent raclette from afar. But on this soggy evening, the employees were still getting things up and running when I walked up. I ordered a raclette sandwich and was informed it would take a few minutes because the bread and cheese were still warming. A couple of minutes soon turned to 15—an eternity when you’re waiting in the rain. Nonetheless, I stuck it out and was rewarded with an ooey, gooey sandwich that did not disappoint. Let me tell you, if you’re ever feeling blue, some melted Alpine cheese between a crusty baguette will certainly go a long way towards improving your disposition.
While I was waiting for the raclette, Time Out Chicago assistant editor Isaiah Reynolds went off in search of more food. He returned with another Christkindlmarket favorite: a bratwurst. Dressed with sauerkraut and mustard, the sandwich (is a brat a sandwich? Nevermind, not going there.) was just what we needed. Like the raclette, you don’t realize how much you’ve missed it until the first bite.
Of course, no trip to Christkindlmarket would be complete without some glühwein. The hot, spiced wine, served in a cute souvenir mug, is a must for any and all visitors. And for the first time since 2019, the beloved mugs are shaped like a boot! The 2024 lineup of cups also includes a ceramic beer stein and a Nutcracker mug for nonalcoholic beverages.
On a cold, rainy night, one sip of glühwein was almost a life-affirming experience. It made the unpleasant weather more bearable and lifted my mood tenfold. It’s the little things in life, ya know?
Isaiah grabbed some roasted almonds to enjoy, because it’s hard to resist the alluring smells, and we checked out Christkindlmarket mainstays, such as the ornament houses, beer stein tent (perfect for gift shopping) and the famous Sweet Castle. Even if you don’t intend on purchasing anything, these charming shops are fun to walk through and really embody the holiday season.
Similar to past years, the bazaar is home to several local eateries that serve more than just sausages and stuffed pretzels. DönerMen, La Boulangerie and Chaya Chai all have stands at Christkindlmarket, and although I didn’t try any of them, I did eye the French bakery’s croissant rolls. Ultimately, I ended up opting for a fresh apple strudel from Helmut’s Original Austrian Strudel— an excellent choice that delivered the sweet ending I was looking for.
At this point, the rain had started to let up and the market was steadily becoming more populated. As much as I would’ve liked to stay and watch the stein holding contest, I was cold and tired. Yet walking out, I didn’t feel like I had wasted my evening. Christkindlmarket is that old, reliable friend you may only see once a year—and you always know what you’re going to get—but there’s comfort in familiarity and tradition during times like these.