If you order the Daiquiri Tropical at Cantina Rosa—which I highly recommend doing—you may become convinced you've bitten into a fantastical mashup of a fresh peach and a passionfruit, so balanced and purposeful is each component of this magical sour. I closed my eyes mid-first sip and floated elsewhere, my feet still firmly planted inside this beautiful, Mexican-inspired Hyde Park bar from chef and restaurateur Erick Williams.
The tiki-tinged cocktail menu—which legendary mixologist Paul McGee consulted on—packs numerous delights, many of them starring agave and sugarcane spirits. Consider the bright, smoke-kissed Paddle Cactus, with mezcal, tart prickly pear, chile and just enough pineapple to bring out the vegetal notes in the agave and cactus. Glancing around the room, I saw a Jushu in front of probably three-quarters of customers. This refreshing sorta margarita is a no-brainer indeed, with mezcal, floral acacia honey, lime and mango.
As I waffled between the demure Rebujito (nutty manzanilla sherry, orgeat, ginger and lime) and the daiquiri, the server plainly suggested the latter “if you like to drink.” Her candor was a balm on that particular Friday, much like this sophisticated yet inviting room, while outside the winter wind howled and democracy’s foundations shook. In that moment I could simply marvel at how the baked apple notes of the calvados and sweet citrus of the passionfruit, lime and pineapple cleverly muffled the drink’s boozy foundation of rum-like charanda. It was plump, round and juicy, a cocktail I won’t soon forget.
Whether high-octane or spirit-free, cocktails demand sustenance. Cantina Rosa delivers a hearty teaser tour of Mexico’s regional botanas (a.k.a. snacks). The cocktail de camarones packs plump shrimp in prescriptively sweet, fiery cocktail sauce that smacks of an orangey Bloody Mary, with a pile of saltine crackers for scooping. A burrito-sized Oaxacan-style tamal, packed with succulent chicken thigh morsels in tomatillo salsa, delivers serious heat beneath its tender masa jacket.
You may not know when you book your seat here that you’ll need to be out in 90 minutes (I learned this also applies to walk-ins). The time limit appears in a paragraph about Cantina Rosa’s policies on OpenTable, “as a courtesy to all our guests.” A host will repeat it to you during a confirmation call, probably around the time you’re heading out the door. Since the pandemic, more bars and restaurants are pink-slipping customers with the aim of turning a certain number of tables each night to help them stay afloat. All the same, it feels like having a stopwatch sitting with you at the table, jarring in a place with superb service that still manages to operate at a relaxed clip.
Our server didn’t once mention the time limit—until, like clockwork, the check arrived about four minutes after the cutoff time. And just like that, we buttoned our coats and returned to our cold, strange reality.
The drink: Agave and sugarcane spirits star on this elegant tropical menu. Rosa’s Paloma riffs on the tequila and grapefruit classic with added cinnamon. The tart yet sultry Desert Spoon Swizzle joins grassy sotol and gently funky rum with lemony sorrel, mint and lime.
The food: Ordering a few soul-soothing snacks will satiate you like a meal. Highlights include refried bean-smeared picaditas (corn cakes) with queso and crema, grilled prawns with Nayarit-inspired salsa Huichol, and sea bass crudo tostadas with avocado crema.
The vibe: Designer Erin Boone took inspiration from Mexican architect Luis Barragán in the bright pink accents at this elegant and sexy bar, where soft waves of fabric drape the ceilings and accent include mesquite-style woodwork, terracotta tiles and embroidered barstools. Request one of the secluded half-moon booths lining the perimeter if you make a reservation.