Chiang Mai’s newest Italian has no pizza – and you won’t even miss it!

Chef Phubase Chuprakong, or ‘Base’ as he is more affectionately known, hails from Phuket but has found his calling here in the north. After learning his trade in Melbourne over several years, he returned to Thailand and quickly made his way to Chiang Mai, launching the incredibly successful Akyra hotel restaurant as executive chef. A decade later, he decided to carve his own territory into the city, quickly gaining a Michelin Guide recommendation for his flagship restaurant Aquila. 

Known for his innovative approach, Chef Phubase explored borderless tasting menus that blended Italian cuisine with Asian influences. His latest venture, Aquaria, continues this trend, offering creative yet classic Italian dishes that are subtly infused with his unique flair. By pushing boundaries while respecting tradition, he is setting a new baseline for Italian cuisine in the city, proving that classic flavors can be both exciting and deeply satisfying if you dare to add a few curious twists.

Aquaria is what many would describe as classic Italian food, but scratch under the crusted glazes and truffle oils and you’ll find a unique combination of flavours that are distinctly his own.

“The name comes from the idea of water,” he explains. “The transparency and freedom that water translates into a menu that’s vibrant and easy to enjoy, yet still surprisingly different.” 

Moving beyond the predictable, Chef Phubase introduces a menu that marries technique with creativity, bringing unexpected yet harmonious flavors to the table of Aquaria. Starters like his almost Japanese-inspired Wagyu Toast bring together deliciously buttery toasted bread with melt-in-the-mouth wagyu beef infused with truffle, while main courses marry traditionally cheesy Italian fare with a hint of spice and Asian herbs to the mix. One standout example of this is the Mussel linguini served with a rich blue cheese sauce that’s got a surprising, but perfectly married, kick of fresh chilli.  

“One of my favourites on the menu is the Truffle Cream Orzo with Wagyu Beef,” he adds as he walks TimeOut through the restaurant’s eclectic menu. “Orzo is a type of pasta made to look like rice, so it’s much lighter than risotto but has a similar mouthfeel. Given the richness of the wagyu beef and truffle sauce, it was a perfect choice to balance out this dish and hint towards more Asian origins.”

But not all dishes are heavy on meat and truffles. The restaurant's varied appetiser menu also features some fresh, zesty partners that compliment the otherwise rich menu, such as the Seabass ceviche brined in pineapple and citrus, or the grilled octopus with spicy tomato sauce and black ink emulsion. 

One notable omission from Aquaria's menu is the absence of any pizzas. While this would normally be expected in an Italian restaurant, Chef Phubase makes the point to remove it and focus more on past and grilled meats.

“I want to showcase steak and seafood, over bread and pizzas,” he adds, confidently stating that while pizza is a great food, it serves no place in this fresh and innovative take on italian cooking.

Instead, the bulk of the menu is made up of succulent steaks, cuts of pork and extensive seafood options that can be grilled and served in a range of styles with a generous offering of sides and sauces. Beef is imported and of the highest quality, while both proteins are served at incredibly competitive prices, surprising given the quality and upscale atmosphere of the restaurant itself. 

With its bold yet refined approach to Italian cuisine, Aquaria contends among its peers as a fresh alternative in Chiang Mai’s dining scene, proving that innovation and tradition can beautifully coexist on a single plate. Nestled inside the popular Spice Garden just inside the Old City moat, it has an atmosphere best suited for special nights out with loved ones and relaxed dinner with friends. And with a fairly priced menu that’s always evolving, there’s countless reasons to return again and again.