If you have never heard of Santini, there is a good chance you have been living under a rock. Some people swear blind it is the best ice cream shop in Portugal. The brand was born on Tamariz Beach, in Estoril, in 1949, founded by Attilio Santini – an Italian who moved to Portugal and brought his family’s historic recipes with him. From there, it jumped to Avenida Valbom, right in the centre of Cascais, creating legions of fans who would cross the country just to try these ice creams and even wait six months for the shop to reopen – until the mid-2000s, the business was seasonal. Years have passed, new counters have opened – even in Lisbon and Porto – and dozens of flavours have been created, but the umbilical link to Cascais remains untouched, with the headquarters, aka the factory, based in Carcavelos, the always-busy Baía shop, the picturesque little kiosk in Aldeia de Juzo and the newest terrace at the Citadel, where, as well as the famous ice creams, cocktails are also served.
In Cascais, the ritual is sacred: no walk along the seafront promenade or afternoon at the beach is complete without a cup or cone of ice cream in hand. The town has a long-standing connection to this sweet tradition, but with counters popping up on every corner, the line between proper artisanal gelato – creamy, made with fresh seasonal fruit and no funny business – and industrial mixtures loaded with colourings has become dangerously thin. To make sure every spoonful is worth the calories and the money, Time Out has mapped out the essential stops along the line. From the historic institution that once served royalty to new Italian-inspired names, these are the best ice cream shops in Cascais.
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