It was during the quiet month of August that Belvedere, the restaurant at the Grande Real Villa Itália hotel in Cascais, reopened with a new concept—one that is connected to the roots of the palace’s history but also to the traditional service of an Italian ristorante. However, this doesn’t mean it’s a return to the past that clings too closely to tradition: the various dishes feature contemporary twists, and the space has been revamped to create a brighter, lighter atmosphere in white and blue tones, with a range of plants that help to make the experience more pleasant.
The idea is to maintain the refinement that inevitably characterises the building, but with a relaxed approach. Inside, adorned with tiles, there is seating for 36 people. Outside, on a splendid terrace where you can almost touch the sea, there is room for 38 more. Currently, it is only open for dinner, allowing guests to enjoy the sunset, but Belvedere plans to start serving lunch on Fridays and weekends very soon to make the most of the good weather.
The new concept is closely linked to the history of the palace. After the Second World War, the last King of Italy, Umberto II, was forced into exile after the Republic was established and moved to Portugal, where he lived for many years. He initially settled in Villa D’Este, which belonged to the Portuguese Pinto Basto family. In 1961, a group of loyal Italian monarchists came together to contribute to the construction of what would become his permanent residence, the current Grande Real Villa Itália. For decades, the king’s house hosted luxurious parties, with other monarchs and nobles staying along the Cascais coast. In 2004, the building opened as a hotel.
Umberto II, known for his love of good food as well as his fondness for cigars and billiards, inspires the new concept of Belvedere—where the spirit of the Italian dolce vita is also felt, thanks to the proximity to the coast, the relaxed pace, and the effortless elegance. Executive chef Luís Sousa and his team have crafted a menu that reflects the tastes of the monarch and the great classics of Italian cuisine, albeit with a contemporary approach and the inclusion of various local Portuguese ingredients. Interestingly, the favourite dishes of the House of Savoy are marked on the menu with a crown symbol.
Start with the antipasti. For starters, the new Belvedere highlights the bagna càuda (15€), a warm dish from Piedmont made with garlic and anchovies, served with crudités; the fritto misto (28€), which can be made with vegetables, fish, or meat coated in batter and fried until crispy; the burratina pugliesi (20€); the tuna tonnato (21€), served with capers, greens, and lemon vinaigrette; the beef carpaccio (25€); or the grilled tiger prawns (37€), with black garlic and tomato pesto.
Next is the primi, in the traditional Italian style, a first course after the antipasti. In this category, there are three of the king’s favourites: the agnolotti alla piemontese (27€), which comes wrapped in a napkin and is a speciality of thin pasta filled with mixed meats in a hot homemade broth; the risotto alla zafferano (21€), rice cooked in broth and white wine with saffron; and the Mafalde Alla Nerano (25€), wavy pasta rings served with courgette and lemon, paying tribute to Princess Mafalda of Savoy, daughter of King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy. This recipe was originally created to mark her birth in 1902. Naturally, there are other options, such as the paccheri al pomodoro (25€), pasta served with tomato sauce, which is finished at the table with the mantecatura process, using cheese to achieve the perfect creamy texture.
For main courses, the secondi, you can enjoy the fish of the day with caper sauce (40€), another of the king’s favourites; the cotoletta Orecchia D’Elefante (90€), made from the first six ribs of milk-fed veal, with a buttery flavour and carved at the table, ideally for two people; the carré di Agnello with pistachios and polenta (34€); the tagliata di manzo, with vegetables and pesto (36€); or the fish and seafood stew Livornese style (38€). There is a range of contorni—side dishes—to choose from, with a highlight being the Sicilian caponata (15€), made with sautéed aubergine as the base.
Finish your meal with one of the three desserts. The cassata siciliana (16€) evokes the wedding of Umberto II and Maria José of Belgium, as it was one of the desserts served at the ceremony. In this version, it consists of several layers of cake soaked in liqueur and layered with ice cream. Also, try the tiramisù (14€) or the meringata al limone (12€).
There is also a carefully curated wine list, featuring many Italian selections among others, crafted by Portuguese sommelier Rodolfo Tristão. Additionally, they serve a variety of Italian-inspired cocktails.
Rua Frei Nicolau de Oliveira, 100, Cascais. 19.00-23.00. 21 096 6000