The challenge was first proposed last year and went so well that Petra Sauer, General Manager of Fortaleza do Guincho, decided to pitch it to Gil Fernandes again: why not create a Christmas menu that breaks away from the usual? The chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant didn’t hesitate, and the fact that it’s served for only a few days hasn’t deterred him. On the contrary, Gil uses this exercise to his advantage – and who knows, some of the dishes might even shape Fortaleza’s future direction. Until then, it’s time to enjoy the new creations – from whelks (or buzinas, as they’re known when large) to lobster – available only from the 18th to the 25th of December.
"Everything starts with the high expectations from our management to create a festive menu. We have to think about seasonal ingredients, how to combine them, and what story we want each dish to tell", says Gil Fernandes, explaining that creating a new menu is, in some ways, a leap into the unknown. "Having to come up with something new is truly a challenge. Since we’re doing it, why not use that challenge for the future? If we gain knowledge, we can incorporate it into the menu", he admits, though without concrete plans to do so, as he has focused on honouring Christmas traditions for now.
"We try to work with the product as a whole and make the most of what’s available around us. That philosophy heavily influences the menu, and we carry it into festive seasons", the chef adds. Even so, and because the season calls for celebration, he also includes "more extravagant ingredients, like lobster or caviar", particularly in the New Year’s Eve menu, which is a truly one-of-a-kind experience. "We don’t usually use them, but for that menu, they’re essential".
Outside the kitchen, however, products that could be considered less prestigious are not overlooked. This is a concept that Gil Fernandes firmly rejects, viewing his profession as a way to make a statement and show that every ingredient has value. The whelk, sourced from Peniche and steamed as part of one of the snacks on his Christmas menu, is a prime example. "Most people don’t eat whelks. What I did was take the ingredient, transform it, and show that even though it's often seen as a poor or undervalued product, we can turn it into something appetising through various techniques", he explains. "We need to have the maturity to use what we already know. That’s called consistency".
On the Christmas menu, presented at a press lunch with seven courses (€175), Gil Fernandes serves everything from lobster to organic turkey with Brussels sprouts and raisins, as well as a Jerusalem artichoke tart with ricotta and honey for dessert. It’s available from December 18 and for just one week.
For New Year’s Eve, the chef has crafted a more extravagant menu (€425 with wine pairing and champagne) to match the celebration. One dish featuring tuna belly and vegetable escabeche is expected to be a hit, and it wouldn’t be surprising if it eventually made its way onto the restaurant’s regular menu. The sautéed lobster is inspired by a recipe from Peniche, with the natural evolution of haute cuisine. The Peniche gilthead is paired with caviar and pumpkin, and there’s also space for a national wagyu. On the first day of the year, this tasting menu (€175 without pairing) will also be available.
"Each dish has its own personality, its own story, and that makes the menu much richer", says Gil. "Take the lobster dish, for example. It was inspired by the Peniche-style sautéed lobster, and that makes it an iconic dish. We added local herbs from our area, and we used our own garum. There are several techniques we’ve added to enrich the recipe". He adds, sitting next to Petra, visibly proud of the result.
"At first, I thought [the Christmas and New Year menus] needed to be different, but it would be out of place with the kitchen's overall style. Ten years ago, or even eight, the menu was very different. It was more French, with scallops and those kinds of things. Today, I’ve learned. It’s in the chef’s hands now. It doesn’t make sense to suddenly have something completely disconnected", Petra explains, a firm advocate for the restaurant's Portuguese identity. "The identity of Fortaleza has completely changed. Now, it's very much a Portuguese kitchen, with very Portuguese flavours".
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