Lennox Nyengera’s journey into the world of wine is as unexpected as it is inspiring.
Originally from Zimbabwe, Lennox first planned a career in the world of fashion design. But after moving to South Africa in 2008 to pursue his studies, he instead found himself drawn into the dynamic world of hospitality. Starting out as a waiter and bartender, his passion for wine was sparked at Cape Town’s celebrated fine dining restaurant, The Roundhouse.
Over the years, his curiosity piqued by the diversity of the Cape Winelands, Lennox traded thoughts of a fashion career for a career in wine. With a Level Three certification from the respected Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), Lennox rose to guide the wine experience at some of Cape Town’s most respected restaurants.
And when Time Out Market Cape Town launched a brand-new wine experience in November 2024, there was only one man for the job of Head Sommelier at one the most exciting new wine bars in Cape Town.
We poured a glass with Lennox to find out more about the man behind the corkscrew…
You’ve had quite the journey to wine: was there a mentor who influenced your journey?
At The Roundhouse I worked closely with Joakim Blackadder, a Swedish sommelier and general manager. We reconnected years later when I was working in Stellenbosch, and he was managing the restaurant at Glenelly. He invited me to join a sommelier academy that he co-founded, and that’s where I received my first formal training. By then, I had experience with wine but no formal qualifications, so it was an invaluable opportunity.
How would you describe Cultivar Wine Bar at Time Out Market Cape Town?
Cultivar is the perfect fit for the Time Out Market here in Cape Town. It’s a proudly local offering within a global brand. The South African wine scene is so vibrant right now, with so much great energy, and Cultivar is a great opportunity for us to showcase the depth of local winemaking to both locals and visitors. At Cultivar, we’ll be offering guests a ‘one-stop shop’ for exploring South African wines, highlighting different cultivars and regions.
Is there a culture of wine bars here in Cape Town?
Absolutely, there’s been a real growth in the number of wine bars here in the city, largely due to a growing interest in wine, especially among younger people. Many of them are eager to learn about wine, whether through tastings, visiting vineyards, or spending time in wine bars. It’s an accessible way for them to explore and appreciate wine.
I walk up to the counter at Cultivar Wine Bar. Talk me through what’s on offer…
We’re launching with around 120 wines on the wine list, and we aim to grow that to about 200. About 30 wines will be available by the glass, offering guests a wide range to sample and enjoy. This selection will evolve over time to reflect seasonal availability and new releases.
We will also offer tasting flights and sommelier-led flights, with two whites and two reds representing different regions of the Cape Winelands. For those who want a deep dive into a specific cultivar, I can curate a more focused tasting: perhaps a Chardonnay flight, or tailor an experience to explore how South Africa’s terroir impacts various cultivars.
Is Cultivar’s wine list exclusively South African?
Yes, we’re focusing purely on South African wines. We want to give our local and international guests the opportunity to explore and appreciate the incredible wines produced here.
Are there any particularly special wines offered by the glass?
Definitely. It will change often, but at the moment we have Restless River’s Ava Marie Chardonnay from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, as well as the wonderful Tabula Rasa Pinot Noir from Oak Valley in Elgin. They are both available at Cultivar by the glass, and these are wines you would typically only be offered by the bottle. It’s a wonderful opportunity for people to experience these rare and premium wines without committing to buying a full bottle.
What are your personal favourites on the wine list?
First, there’s Keermont Syrah. I admire their minimalist approach to winemaking; they really let the fruit and terroir speak for the wine. Another favourite is the Pieter Ferreira Birdsong Brut: a remarkable Méthode Cap Classique – sparkling wine made in the champagne method – that really rivals the best champagnes. And, of course, there’s the Mosi Tinashe Chenin Blanc, which is made by former sommelier-turned-winemaker Joseph Dhafana. It’s a beautiful wine with a meaningful story.
Time Out Market is about food as much as the wine… what are some of your recommended pairings?
I love pairing food and wine, and I’d suggest people come to Cultivar to enjoy a wine flight before they order, so we can help them find the perfect wine for their meal.
One pairing I love is the grilled prawns from Mlilo with Usana Pinot Gris. The wine’s depth and minerality balance the spicy flavours of the dish. Another great combination is the Korean Fried Chicken from The Melting Pot paired with B Vintners Méthode Ancestrale. The acidity and bubbles are perfect for cutting through the richness of the fried chicken, while the slight sweetness complements the spice. Lastly, I’d suggest the smoked mushroom bao from How Bao Now paired with Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir. The umami and smokiness of the mushrooms enhance the elegant notes of the Pinot Noir.
If you were cast away to a desert island, and could choose just one wine – one cultivar – what would it be?
I’d be tempted by the Ataraxia Pinot Noir, but I think I’d have to settle for The Foundry Roussanne. It’s made by winemaker Chris Williams, who is an incredible talent. He was the cellarmaster at iconic Stellenbosch estate Meerlust for 16 years, but now makes his own wines in the Voor-Paardeberg. The Roussanne is not very well known, but it’s a beautiful wine that is wonderfully complex. You can enjoy it on its own, or with food.