At the top of Keerom Street, in the heart of Cape Town's legal district, is a building. A few steps from the lush Company Gardens it's been standing here for centuries, and in the years before the pandemic was one of Cape Town's most celebrated Italian restaurants: 95 Keerom. Then Covid hit and the restaurant closed, and for too many years it has stood empty.
But when Karel van der Vyver was looking for a home for his new pet project, this two-storey space awash in natural light was perfect. The owner agreed, the tables moved out, and in came one of the most charming museums Cape Town has to offer.
The Museum of Dogs is (it seems) the world's only museum dedicated to celebrating dogs and delving into their timeless role in history as comforters, friends and workers. Across six main exhibition spaces Van der Vyver – who trained in law, but truly loves museums – has created a journey exploring our enduring affection with hounds through captivating stories and interactive displays.
'The Museum is not at all focused on breeds and the technicalities of dogs, but rather the relationship and connection we have between us,' explains Van der Vyver.
On the ground floor, that begins with a look at dogs in popular culture. Listening stations allow you to tune into songs where dogs play a central role, from The Beatles to Pink Floyd. On the other wall, a copy of 'Jock of the Bushveld' places this South African classic in the canon of children's literature.
In the room next door is a more historical look at the role dogs have played. There's the charm of Able Seaman Just Nuisance, but also a look at how dogs were used as a tool of repression by the apartheid state.
Less distressing is the photography exhibition by Johannesburg-based pet photographer, Emma O'Brien, who brings remarkable humanity to the hounds.
But it's all just a precursor for the most delightful section of the Museum of Dogs, which tells the stories of a few dozen memorable mutts, in the words of their owners, and accompanied by a relevant momento.
There's the one about the dog who brought a divorced couple back together, displayed with the dress the bride remarried in. There's the one about the rescued Dachshund who was sterilized before it was discovered he was a pedigree used for breeding. A copy of Orham Pamuk's novel The Museum of Innocence is particularly fitting: besides the museum connection, it tells the story of how Van der Vyver found his dog along a dusty gravel road in the Karoo. On a shelf, look too for the canine ceramics by Cape Town-based Tania Babb, and the side-room showing movies about mutts.
Then there's a section for more famous dogs: Van der Vyver obtained permission from the White House Historical Association to print images and stories delving into famous presidential dogs through the ages. In the run-up to the US elections in November, it takes pride of place on the stairwell.
Rounding off the experience is a small gift shop and café, meaning you can easily stretch your visit into an hour or two. There's a small children's play area upstairs and – yes, I asked – the museum is dog-friendly.
The Museum of Dogs is open from Tuesday to Sunday; 10 am – 5 pm. Entrance is R100 for adults, R50 for children under 16, and free for children under 10.
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