The One&Only Cape Town hotel – or ‘urban resort’, as it’s often described – enjoys one of the best locations in Cape Town, and whether you come for the Asian cuisine of Nobu (the only outpost in southern Africa) or the sundowner cocktails at the elegant Vista Bar & Lounge, there are many good reasons for locals – and tourists – to stop in.
But the main hotel restaurant has often been a difficult space, rotating through various chefs and menu concepts, while struggling to offer much charm in a cavernous space of towering ceilings. Happily, it seems to have found its groove with the October opening of the reimagined ROOI, with a major refurbishment and a new approach in the kitchen.
Imagined as a modern South African grillroom, ROOI at One&Only Cape Town is billed as ‘a celebration of land and sea, touched by fire’, say the chefs. It’s an approach that has worked for high-end dining destinations elsewhere in South Africa and comes seamlessly to the fore at ROOI.
The changes are evident from the moment you step through the door. A floor-to-ceiling refurbishment has injected a healthy dose of warmth and local colour into the space. Lower ceilings, cladding around the pillars and the creation of more intimate banquettes and booths have shaken off the cavernous feel, replacing it with a proudly South African charm and character. Tables come clad in white linen and colourful fynbos, echoed in the striking inlay rug celebrating local flora and fauna, while the custom mural by Elise Wessels and a striking kitchen centrepiece crafted by Bronze Age add additional points of interest.
It all works together to create a space where you’ll want to linger and explore the new menu. Start with the cocktails, cleverly named for South African provinces and celebrating signature products from each: think agave spirit from the Eastern Cape, gin from the Western Cape and Amaraula from Limpopo.
On the menu there’s an abundance of choice. There are salads to consider over lunchtime, or to combine with the inventive starter plates that tap into a larder of local produce. The ‘Simonstown Chokka & Chips’ is a wonderful take a on a popular classic, plated with plenty of creativity.
The selection of grills is likely to tempt – this is a grillroom after all – and the steaks won’t disappoint. Alongside classic prime cuts, there’s an enviable selection of South African wagyu beef and aged mutton that showcase these underrated cuts. Larger cuts, for the table to share are another excellent option.
But the kitchen’s creativity comes to the fore in the collection of Mains, where the Cape and fiery influence comes to the fore in the likes of Cape Malay chicken breast, Josper-fired aubergine and a contemporary version of classic lamb shank potjie with krummelpap. Desserts lean heavily into traditional plates, from reinvented Hertzoggies and malva pudding to the clever ROOI smores; a braai-time favourite.
For pairings with each, you can turn to the One&Only’s long-time sommelier Luvo Ntezo, whose encyclopaedic knowledge of Cape estates will serve you well.
It all adds up to a new incarnation of the hotel’s signature restaurant that finally feels at home. Expect the tables to be hot property this summer.
Also in the V&A: A true taste of Japan at Time Out Market Cape Town...