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New eatery for Durbanville’s Groot Phesantekraal

History and hospitality combine on a menu brimming with authentic Cape flavours.

Richard Holmes
Written by
Richard Holmes
Local expert, Cape Town
Groot Phesantekraal
Photograph: Groot Phesantekraal
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Durbanville’s wine route is heating up, with a host of new activities, attractions and cellar door experiences. The latest addition is a new culinary hotspot on historic Groot Phesantekraal Estate, where chef Germaine Esau is whipping up a little magic in the kitchen.

Groot Phesantekraal dates back more than three centuries, and it’s been in the Brink family for the past four generations. It’s that sense of history – and a sense of generous winelands hospitality, that informs a menu overflowing with a sense of flavour and community.

‘We’re so much part of the history of our setting here in Durbanville. Established in 1698, this farm stands as one of the oldest in the region,' explains André Brink, who owns the farm with his wife Ronelle. ‘We’re here for the past, the present and the future, with our new restaurant highlighting our deep-rooted connection to this land in our food, in our wine, in good company, in community, in spirit and in soul. That’s what we’re about.”

Set in the estate’s restored stables – built in 1767 –  the beautifully refreshed space blends original features with contemporary flourishes. That sees original cobbled floors meld easily with modern furniture and fittings. There’s even a nod to the Cape’s history in the historic photographs and custom-blue Dutch tiles adorning the thick walls.

That same sense of style extends to Esau’s menu, which offers hearty Cape farm-style cuisine with a side order of sustainability.

Esau has cooked in some of the most respected kitchens in the Cape, from Delaire Graff and Myoga to Majeka House in Stellenbosch. That shines through on the plate, with hyper-seasonal menus that showcase the region’s fresh produce, much of it from the surrounding Winelands.

‘We’re even chatting to artisans to hand-mill the wheat that comes right here from the farm. And we recently planted fields of pumpkin and makataan. So, yes, we’ll be doing a lot of preserving and fermenting,’ says Esau. ‘Our restaurant’s great for a leisurely family-style breakfast or lunch on weekends or a quick mid-week treat. We like to keep it down-to-earth.’

The new menu runs from Cape-inspired breakfast plates – think souffle omelettes with Huguenot cheese to smoked fish cakes with eggs and hollandaise – to lunch dishes that pair perfectly with the estate wines. Starters could include venison tartare or a fragrant Cape Malay coconut curry, while main courses are bold in approach: dry-aged free-range beef with salt-baked celeriac. Braised lamb shoulder with smoked aubergine. Perhaps grilled yellowtail with braised gem lettuce and bokkoms. Young ones? A kids’ menu is also available.

It's all served up on the grassed terrace, with a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside, and surrounded by a charming garden.

Hungry? Take a look at our pick of the Best Restaurants in the Winelands

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