Chefs Warehouse & Canteen is back. That’s it. That’s all you need to know. So why are you still reading, and not driving straight for 91 Bree Street?
A decade after Liam Tomlin first opened Chefs Warehouse in Heritage Square, and quickly redefined what upscale dining could look like in the city, it’s comeback time for Tomlin & Co. as the original gets a long-awaited reboot across the road from the much-loved original.
The new version of Chefs Warehouse & Canteen is another partnership with chef David Schneider, and delivers the same dedication for down-to-earth dining, with a little more space than the original where you’d be rubbing elbows with the table next to you. In the enlarged space it feels like there’s a little more room to relax, exhale, and admire Liam and Jan (his wife and business partner) Tomlin’s love of food, art, wine and design.
‘It’s nostalgic, but better,’ says Liam. ‘The original has a deeply personal and special place in our hearts… we loved the compact size and the social vibe it created but it also limited us in terms of seating and overall decor. In this newly imagined space, we can play more with art, lighting … we even have space for two wine cellars and a good part of my cookbook collection.’
If the feel of the space has changed, the concept remains reassuringly (almost) the same.
The pioneering ‘Tapas for 2’ (priced at R800 per person) remains the bedrock of the experience, with a set menu of four courses for sharing. Those courses will change regularly, but look forward to the likes of venison tataki, pork gyoza, roast pork belly with lentil ragout, duck breast with fesujin sauce, and bouillabaisse. Tomlin’s iconic lemon posset, of course, makes a triumphant return too.
What’s changed is that now there is also the option of ordering individual plates from an à la carte menu. To match the food, you’ll find a well-stocked wine cellar (two, in fact) filled with many bottles from Tomlin’s own cellar.
Communal dining was central to the original Chefs Warehouse experience, and that remains in the new space, with a long central table encouraging you to commune with strangers over fine food.
But, that’s not for everyone, and perhaps you’re after a seat with a little more privacy. Here the new space is ideal, with cosy benches lining the walls to offer more intimate spaces. There is also the Paul du Toit family table – named for the late artist whose works grace the space – and several banquettes under a bank of smoky mirrors. Also, look up, and pay attention to the butchery-inspired ceramic chandelier created by Cape Town-based Ceramic Matters.
There’s no shortage of interesting décor to catch your eye, but honestly, it’s the food that will keep you coming back. Expect tables to fill up fast, so get your booking in fast.
Chefs Warehouse & Canteen is open for lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday.
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