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Salami, cheese, and now wine: a journey to the gastronomic heart of Tandil

Tandil's salami and cheese are embedded in the local DNA, but now beers, wines, and more products have joined the scene.

Mariana Israel
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It's impossible to visit Tandil and leave empty-handed, especially after visiting the Gastronomic Market, an annual event where local restaurants and producers come together to create a gourmet experience benefiting Banco de Alimentos Tandil. Of course, salami and cheese abound, but new local flavors, such as craft beer, spirits, and wine, also take center stage.

The Star: Tandil’s Salami

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The first product we sampled at the market and stuffed into our bags for the return trip—crushing our clothes in the process—was the famous Tandil salami, and it’s famous for a reason. Just last year, Tandil produced the world’s longest salami, and this year, at the Chacinar Festival in November, they plan to break that record.

A fusion of Spanish, Italian, and French immigrant recipes, the authentic Tandil salami is made with pork and beef, lard, and a blend of spices passed down through generations. The meat is coarsely chopped, and the threading is an art form in itself.

This cured meat was the first processed product in Argentina to be recognized with a Denomination of Origin (DO), meaning that, like Roquefort or Champagne, Tandil salami has unique characteristics that cannot be replicated elsewhere because those traits are linked to the specific region where it’s produced.

“Our salami is made in an environment that generates certain yeasts, fungi, and spores unique to this area, giving it a flavor that sets it apart,” explains Juana Echezarreta, president of the Denomination of Origin Council for Tandil Salami. Brands like Cagnoli and Las Dinas are also part of the council, producing salami that’s more than just a product—it’s a family tradition and a witness to Tandil’s history.

Gourmet Tandil Salami: Las Dinas

Las Dinas is one of the most recognized names in the city when it comes to cold cuts. Known for their "high-flying cured meats," as their slogan suggests, Las Dinas has stores in northern Buenos Aires and supplies restaurants ranging from the Four Seasons to Narda Comedor and Carne, the venture of chef Mauro Colagreco.

carlos-panighetti
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The family business started in 1983 with the Las Dinas Farm, the first pig farm established in the region. Over time, Carlos Panighetti and his siblings took charge, initially in a very niche, specialty manner. “It was almost a garage startup,” says Charly, as he’s nicknamed.

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In 2010, they moved to the factory where they’re currently based, and in 2021, they secured SENASA’s health certification, opening doors nationwide. The factory is impressive, and every detail of the process is carefully managed: order, cleanliness, and timing at each stage of production are key to achieving the perfect flavor. “Industrial processes are the evolution of craftsmanship, its perfection. It doesn’t diminish the magic because the magician still lives within you,” Charly asserts.

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Las Dinas sells around 50,000 kilos of cured meats each month, and 80% of the recipes come from Charly’s father. The artisan in him comes alive when he’s cooking and experimenting. He slices a nearly lean salami he invented, sprinkles olive oil over it, and offers it, honoring the sign on the wall that reads, “We were born gourmet.”

"Las Dinas sells around 50,000 kilos of cured meats each month, and 80% of the recipes come from Charly’s father"

Traditional Salami: Cagnoli

“I have to head to the farm, so let’s be quick,” says Hugo Cagnoli, but his eyes light up as he begins recounting the company’s history, and an hour later, he’s still there, deeply engrossed in conversation about the past and present. Hugo is part of the second generation of the family business, recalling how, 80 years ago, they sold sausages from a cart to the workers in Tandil’s quarries.

hugo-cagnoli
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Cagnoli is a well-known brand, now in its fourth generation. Still, Hugo believes “the boom is yet to come.” “It’s like a growing plant. You don’t know how far it can go.” At the factory, they call him “Uncle Hugo,” and he tastes every product before it’s launched. “Having a grandchild ask for your opinion is the best thing for me,” he says.

He takes a salami and cuts it diagonally, as it should be. This is from the Pedro Cagnoli line, named after the founder, and it's only available in Tandil. It’s not a whim—it’s because the product isn’t made to travel long distances without losing its flavor and the characteristic “plumage,” the white mold that makes it special.

salames-pedro-cagnoli
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“Our salami is unique because the climate here is distinctive, as is the spicing and the way we handle the meat without breaking the fiber. The key factor is drying: the ventilation, humidity, and heat,” Hugo explains.

He talks about the “new generation’s” inventions, like smoked and spicy salamis. The fuet remains the star product, along with their slow-cooked ham.

"The fuet remains the star product, along with their slow-cooked ham"

The Perfect Pairing: Cheese

The fame of Tandil’s salami is undeniable, but it’s equally true that a proper charcuterie board isn’t complete without cheese. The history of Tandil’s cheese predates that of its salami. The renowned company Don Atilio S.A., for instance, continues the cheesemaking tradition of the Magnasco family, which spans over 150 years.

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Highlighting this dairy product is the goal of the "Cheese Cluster," a group of 20 local producers who have been working together for 11 years in a manner similar to the Denomination of Origin Council for salami.

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One of the most typical cheeses from Tandil, and a star of recent editions of the city’s Gastronomic Market, is "banquet cheese." “It’s been produced since 1937 at the Escuela Granja, and it’s a must-have on any charcuterie board or dessert platter in Tandil,” says Lucio Rancez, the cluster coordinator.

"One of the most typical cheeses from Tandil is banquet cheese"

He shares that they’re working on securing a "geographical indication" (GI) to protect this cheese’s production. Similar to the DO, the GI differentiates products with territorial ties. “This same recipe won’t work elsewhere. Here, the cows graze on specific pastures, giving their milk a unique composition. That’s why we want to safeguard these qualities,” Lucio explains.

queso-banquete
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For Pairing: Beer, Gin, and Wine

In recent years, new products have emerged in Tandil to pair with charcuterie. Several local breweries, such as Tandilia, have cropped up, and since 2019, Destilería Campo has been producing spirits. Their “Campo” gin, best served with local herbs or lemon and tonic, is a must-try.

"In recent years, new products have emerged in Tandil to pair with the traditional charcuterie board: beer, gin, and wine"

Tandil’s local wine, which has been on the market since 2012, also deserves a mention. Cordón Blanco was the pioneer in the region, with its line of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc.

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Bodega Cordón Blanco

Another local, agricultural engineer Alejandro Bonadeo, is developing the “Finca74” vineyard and tourist winery, set in a stunning landscape along Route 74.

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Alejandro explains that the Tandilia mountain system has characteristics similar to wine-producing regions in France, with its proximity to the coast, thermal range, dry climate, and sunshine. The soil, which isn’t suitable for other crops, is another advantage. “Vines don’t need excellent soil, quite the opposite. If the soil is too rich, the wine can taste grassy,” he points out. “We plan to uncork our first sparkling wine in 2026,” the engineer adds.

"The characteristics of the Tandilia mountain range system are analogous to wine-producing regions in France"

Step by step, product by product, Tandil expands the flavors of its identity. As Hugo Cagnoli mentioned, it’s impossible to know how far and high this plant will grow.

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