DoHo: the circuit with a relaxed vibe that attracts a curious crowd

It is not officially a neighborhood of Buenos Aires, but it is an area with its own identity and rhythm. A corridor with wide sidewalks and a linear park stretching along Donado and Holmberg streets in Villa Urquiza, constantly growing. A hidden gem in Buenos Aires that left behind its past of vacant lots and squatted houses for modern four-story residential complexes that coexist with a dynamic commercial hub. In just a few blocks, you'll find restaurants, design stores, art galleries, boutique bookstores, specialty coffee shops, breweries, ceramic workshops, and wine bars.

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Many people who chose this new area to live in say that walking through DoHo (short for Donado-Holmberg) feels like "being on vacation," with that relaxed vibe you get when strolling through a trendy beach town. No rush, no agendas, but plenty of activity, murals on walls, tables taking over the sidewalks, music, and a laid-back, urban identity from the locals, creating that easygoing and urban atmosphere. Want to explore more corners of the city? Follow Visit Bue!

The scar that gave birth to DoHo

This area was not always a vibrant commercial hub, let alone a foodie map offering all kinds of options. For those curious about history, one must travel back in time to 1977 to understand how the phenomenon was born. That year, with the intention of building the AU3 Highway that would traverse the city from north to south, lands, homes, and entire buildings were expropriated in a strip that affected residential areas of Colegiales, Coghlan, and especially Villa Urquiza and Villa Ortúzar, among other surrounding areas.

However, the project was never carried out, and as a result, the entire strip was left deteriorated. The locals called it "the scar," a wound that kept widening alongside a process of neighborhood and social disintegration that lasted for many years. It wasn't until 1999, driven by Law 324 of the City, that the so-called Barrio Parque Donado Holmberg began to take shape with the aim of restoring the urban fabric and transforming it into a modern residential zone.

Today, in the 13 blocks between Donado and Holmberg streets, there are almost no signs of that scar, which was repaired with low-rise new developments and open views – built since 2009 – in an environment with wide sidewalks and large commercial spaces at street level, breathing life into this rising cultural and gastronomic hub.

Gourmet skewers and beer street food

The latest opening in DoHo is PIBÄ (Donado 1877), which recently opened a new 100 m2 location in what could be considered the epicenter of the area. It offers premium street food, beer, and great vibes, and it already has several branches across Buenos Aires. Besides the classic meat, chicken, and pork skewers, they always feature new additions to the menu, which makes recommending just one a tough task. The beef tenderloin skewer is a hit, coming with mushrooms, caramelized onions, and chimichurri mayonnaise. The pork shoulder skewer is a classic, often served with homemade barbecue sauce. There are also skewers of sweetbreads, shrimp, artichoke, or Spanish octopus, one of the menu's stars that showcases what PIBÄ is all about. All served in a relaxed atmosphere, ready to be eaten by hand.

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To help first-time visitors find their way around DoHo, it’s worth mentioning that the action along Donado is between Echeverría, where Plaza Zapiola is located – with old trees, a playground, and one of the few Buenos Aires parks that still doesn’t have a fenced perimeter – and La Pampa (where Villa Ortúzar starts). On Holmberg, the offerings stretch from Monroe Avenue to Sucre.

Baos and bowls with a Japanese touch

One of the top recommendations is definitely in Holmberg 2248. Behind Enso, a restaurant offering simple and homey Japanese food, is chef Pablo "Jota" Nohara, who opened this spot intending to return to the roots. "I wanted to do something very Japanese, but not just sushi," Jota tells Time Out.

"Street food, all served in bowls, with family recipes. I wanted to leave Palermo and was looking for a comfortable place with wide sidewalks in an accessible area, but with some movement. When I found this space, I fell in love, and the area is getting more beautiful every day," he says. At Enso, the kitchen is open, and most of the framed artwork on the walls are drawings by the chef’s daughters. They work from Tuesday to Sunday, on a first-come, first-served basis, with no reservations. Oh, and the ramen is excellent.

If you're craving sushi, just walk a few steps to the corner of Holmberg and Blanco Encalada, where SushiClub is located. It started with delivery and take-out and, thanks to the positive response from the neighborhood, added tables inside, in a cozy setting with dim lighting and small tables by the windows.

Crafts, ceramic workshops, and lots of design

DoHo’s map isn't just for foodies. There are clothing stores, design objects, ceramic workshops, handmade toys, and art galleries, like Oni, a creative space at Donado 1965, offering drawing, painting, and mixed media workshops.

Also, on Echeverría 4266, just around the corner and on one of the busiest cross streets, is Tienda Lechuga, which opened during the pandemic. Tienda Lechuga, its owner confesses, "is full of treasures." All the objects for sale are special, thoughtfully handmade, with a conscious, small-scale approach, and created by artists from all over the country. There are toys, books, board games, and plenty of ceramics.

Steps away from this store, at Echeverría 4230, Marianela Rosselli opened Soles de Abril six years ago. When she arrived, the sale of objects and ceramic workshops wasn’t being explored. "There was no competition," says Rosselli, who now shares this theme with several other offerings in the area. "We started offering ceramics and painting classes, and more and more people signed up. Last year, we ended with 130 students, both kids and adults, starting at 6 years old with no age limit," she emphasizes. Most of the products for sale, Rosselli adds, are made in the workshop, on the tables visible through the window, catching the attention of passersby.

Where to enjoy a great coffee in DoHo

With more than a dozen options, specialty coffee shops are one of the best-represented sectors in DoHo. They are everywhere and more keep popping up. Cigaló, at Holmberg 2004, always ensures the coffee arrives at the table at the perfect temperature, and its corner spot is ideal for breakfast, especially on those sunny autumn mornings. The Le Blé chain, at Sucre 4300, is another classic and pioneer in the area. Across the street, Café Urbano, at Donado 1901, has tables with umbrellas well-separated between the trees of the block. On weekends, it fills up with people and is perfect for a coffee or a bite to eat.

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One must-visit, recently named one of the 100 best coffee shops in the world, is Ninina, located at Holmberg 2464. "Maybe more people go to the Palermo location since they’re just passing by, but here we have a loyal clientele, and I think the green, peaceful setting is a great advantage," says Emmanuel Paglayan, owner and host of the brand, which was named after his grandmother, whom he called Ninina as a child. At this Villa Urquiza location, they also have their own roastery, roasting about 700 kilos of coffee per month, supplying not only their shops but also the public.

Young neighborhood and contemporary entrepreneurs

Many young people have settled in DoHo. Most agree on this point, and many of the entrepreneurs in the new hub share a similar profile. Where there is an audience eager to go out and have fun, you’ll never lack bars and options to gather around a table. Built in a renovated old house, El Bohemio, at Donado 1802, is another pioneer. It offers "bodegón" (casual Argentine restaurant) food at a strategic corner.

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Also, always busy, Ache de Lugo opened at Donado 1898. A few blocks further and some time later, Faizán opened at Donado 1700, a wine and tapas bar on the edge of Villa Ortúzar, whose slogan reads: "Some wine, a corner, a family."

Although its official identity reads Barrio Parque Donado-Holmberg, everyone knows it as DoHo, one of the circuits growing with the most dynamism and no pretensions. It’s worth taking a walk, strolling along its wide sidewalks, having a drink, or bringing your laptop and sitting at one of its coffee shops. No rush, no hurry, and a neighborhood vibe.