What to Do During the Week & the Weekend in Buenos Aires

On September 21, spring arrives with plenty of reasons to go out and celebrate. In Palermo, FOGA is putting together a special event combining classic cocktails, smoked dishes and wine at its venue. You can opt for an After Office designed for sharing, with cocktails and a variety of bites, or go straight for the Smoked Tasting Board, paired with a wine from FOW Terroir Selection – ideal if you're looking for something to nibble on slowly as the afternoon fades.

Meanwhile, in Almagro, La Capitana – the bodegón and vermouth bar inspired by the aesthetics of early Peronism – is bringing back its classic 3-for-2 deal on vermouth served in a tall glass, made with Vermú Rosso, orange juice and soda, one of the venue's most popular combinations. The event starts at 7pm, between the dining rooms and terrace, decorated with nods to the 1940s and 1950s and accompanied by tango and bolero music in the background. Two different ways to welcome the new season, but with the same spirit: getting together for a toast.

The detail: La Capitana opened in July 2022, just a few weeks before the 70th anniversary of Eva Perón's death; FOGA opened in 2025, transforming a traditional three-storey mansion into a space devoted to fire and smoke.

Where: Honduras 5098, Palermo; Guardia Vieja 4446, Almagro.

From September 21 to October 3, Café Vinilo celebrates the second edition of Festival Vinilo, ten days of concerts at the San Cristóbal mansion where Armando Tejada Gómez and Mercedes Sosa once lived. The building's history only recently came to light, and it has now become part of the city's Cultural Heritage.

This week's line-up includes artists such as La Ferni, the Argüello-Gangi duo, the children's project Casi Nanas, Elías Gurevich and the Guillo Espel Quartet, among other names representing different sides of today's independent music scene. Tickets are available on the Café Vinilo website.

The detail: every show can also be watched live on the venue's YouTube channel, for those who can't make it to the concerts in person.

Where: Estados Unidos 2483, San Cristóbal.

Fundación Proa is presenting the first retrospective in Argentina of Thomas Demand, featuring more than 60 works including photographs, videos and wallpapers spanning three decades of his work, following exhibitions at the Jeu de Paume in Paris and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. The German artist's method is as personal as it is meticulous: he starts with photographs of events that have shaped recent history and reconstructs those spaces at life-size scale using nothing but paper and cardboard.

Among his recreations are the control room at Fukushima following the 2011 tsunami, Edward Snowden's Moscow hideout and a Stasi office in East Berlin. Once photographed, the models are destroyed: the final image is the only trace left of a process that can take months of painstaking craftsmanship. You can visit the exhibition this week, Wednesday to Sunday. It remains open until November.

The detail: admission is free on Wednesdays; from Thursday to Sunday, general admission costs $7,000, while students, teachers and senior citizens pay $5,000; children under 12 enter free.

Where: Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca.

From September 23 to October 4, CUISINE, the French Foodie Festival, invites visitors to explore the city through workshops, classes, tastings and events dedicated to French cuisine, curated by Ode Vergos. This week, the programme stops at Morris Mousse, where pastry chef Marcos Speroni leads a chocolate mousse workshop on September 23; Club Marchand, with a French wine tasting led by sommelier Florencia Alvarez on September 24; Kakawa, with a chocolate-making workshop hosted by Julieta Pascuale on September 25; and Jimena Fuster, with a croissant workshop on September 26.

On September 27, L'Epi opens the doors of its century-old bakery – the first French bakery to open in Argentina – complete with a wood-fired oven and a talk with its founder, Bruno Gillot.

The detail: tickets range from $35,000 to $85,000 depending on the event and are available through Passline.

Where: various restaurants across Buenos Aires.

The second volume of Vinilo Sessions is back, a series created by journalist Gabriel Plaza that invites audiences to listen to an entire album guided by specialists who provide the context and anecdotes behind each record. Between September 22 and 25, 878 Bar and its Hi-Fi sound system host four nights dedicated to Clics Modernos by Charly García, with Facundo Arroyo; After Chabón by SUMO, with Sebastián Ramos; and Un baión para el ojo idiota by Patricio Rey y sus Redonditos de Ricota, with Gabriela Radice.

The programme is rounded out by Taracá by Jorge Drexler, with Plaza himself as the guide. Four opportunities to listen again, at a leisurely pace and with great sound, to albums that shaped different generations of Argentine rock and pop.

The detail: tickets cost $10,000 and are available through Alpogo.

Where: Thames 878, Villa Crespo.

El Precipicio, directed and written by Sofía Wilhelmi as a loose adaptation of the work by Lucía Miranda and Miguel Cuerdo, is still running at Teatro San Martín, with performances this week from September 24 to 27 at 7.30pm. Leonor Manso and Paloma Contreras play two women who, from different perspectives, are approaching the end of life: one is just beginning to glimpse the abyss, while the other is already staring directly into it.

Blending humour and lucidity, the play explores ageing, death and emotional inheritance from an intimate and deeply feminine perspective, with set design by Ariel Vaccaro and Paola Delgado and original music by Carmen Baliero.

The detail: discounts are available for students and senior citizens on Fridays and Sundays.

Where: Avenida Corrientes 1530, San Nicolás.

Two dates for film lovers that won't cost you a penny. On September 24 at 6pm, Casa de la Lectura y la Escritura screens La mujer infiel (The Unfaithful Wife), by Claude Chabrol: a 1969 erotic suspense thriller about a businessman who discovers that his wife is having an affair and is drawn into a tense and unexpected ending, as part of the "Cine para Lectores" series, dedicated to the French director this month and followed by a talk moderated by critic Diego De Angelis.

The following day, September 25, at the same time, Centro Cultural Recoleta screens Frenzy, by Alfred Hitchcock. Set in a London that seems indifferent to the horror unfolding around it, the film follows a serial killer on the loose and the innocent man who ends up being pursued instead, in a story combining ironic drama, raw horror and dark humour in one of the director's most ruthless films.

The detail: for the screening at Centro Cultural Recoleta, you need to reserve your ticket online.

Where: Junín 1930, Recoleta; Lavalleja 924, Villa Crespo.

Le Rêve, the Parisian-style spot in Palermo, offers its aperitivo hour every day from 6pm to 8pm, with cocktails and a selection of small plates at accessible prices, alongside its French classics. But once a month, the occasion gets a special twist: live music joins the mix and the atmosphere becomes even more joie de vivre. This special edition takes place on September 24, also from 6pm to 8pm, making it a perfect way to slow down in the afternoon over drinks and good vibes.

The detail: behind Le Rêve is chef Ramiro Hernández, who has worked in Argentina and Europe.

Where: Nicaragua 5001, Palermo.

On September 26, from 11am to 3.30pm, Penguin Libros' Historias que Enamoran Festival returns with a free event for readers of all kinds, dedicated to historical fiction, Japanese literature, thrillers and sagas. Guests include Gabriela Exilart and Daniel Balmaceda, who will discuss how history becomes fiction; Cristina Pérez and Diana Arias, talking about the boom in Japanese literature; Ivana Kasper, Barbi and Sol Di Giorno, discussing unputdownable thrillers; Gloria V. Casañas and Flavia Pitella, exploring the construction of a saga; and Viviana Rivero, who will close the event. There will also be books, games, giveaways, audiobooks and spaces to meet other readers away from the stage.

The detail: admission is free; to secure your place, you can book through Eventbrite.

Where: Virrey Loreto 2348, Belgrano.

Every Saturday in September at 1pm, Bebop Club becomes the stage for La Pequeña Big Band, a family-friendly show that reimagines songs from films, TV series and animated worlds with original jazz and swing arrangements. With ten musicians on stage, live instruments, humour, characters and plenty of audience participation, the show – with musical direction by Mauro Piterman and artistic direction by Florencia Piterman – invites children to discover the sound of a big band, while adults will find nods to songs that shaped their own childhoods. Following its success during the winter holidays, the series has extended its run this month.

The detail: tickets are available on the BEBOP Club website.

Where: Uriarte 1658, Palermo.

On September 26 and 27, from 10am to 6pm, Parque de la Ciudad is putting together a spring-themed programme with recreational, cultural and sporting activities for the whole family. On Saturdays and Sundays at noon and 3pm, there are workshops where children can create and plant their own "Loco Lope", a character they decorate and sow with canary grass seeds to watch its "hair" grow over the following days.

There are also doubles foosball tournaments, 1-v-1 football tennis, boat rides and inflatable games, prizes for participants and a food area with food trucks, as well as more than 15 local businesses selling handmade products.

The detail: admission is free.

Where: Avenida General Fernández de la Cruz 4000, Villa Soldati.

On September 26 and 27, from 10am to 5pm, Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays hosts the 11th edition of the Feria del Botánico, featuring roses, orchids, succulents, carnivorous plants and seeds produced on the grounds for you to take home.

There will also be stands selling specialist books, soil, pots and decorative objects, making it a good opportunity for nature lovers looking to add some greenery to their homes. In case of rain, the fair will be rescheduled for the following weekend.

The detail: admission is free; in case of rain, the event will move to October 3 and 4.

Where: Santa Fe 3951, Palermo.