From his iconic meat house, La Cabrera, which is ranked among the World's 101 Best Steak Restaurants, the star chef shares his secrets with us.
At La Cabrera, chef Gastón Riveira founded a meat house in honor of our traditions. His tribute to the culture of the Río de la Plata has become a global sensation. Not only because of all the foreigners who arrive in Buenos Aires eager to try this must-visit Argentine grill, but also because his restaurant now has locations in many cities and several countries: from Pilar, City Bell, Jujuy, and Salta to Spain, the United States, the Philippines, Mexico, Colombia, Peru, Paraguay, and Chile.
As if that weren't enough, they made it into the global ranking of the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants 2024. That’s right, La Cabrera secured the 64th spot in the competition organized by the London-based firm Upper Cut Media House, which evaluated 850 meat restaurants from around the world. “Awards are a great distinction, but the most important work is that of my entire team who push the cart every day to get better and better,” Gastón confessed to us, expressing his excitement that the international recognition brings attractions to tourism in the city.
“For us, the Argentine asado is a gathering, of meetings and parties. However, the asado is a cut of meat that is always present when there is fire,” says Gastón. And we took the opportunity to ask him for his recommendations to make the ritual a luxury. Here are his 8 essentials for making the best Argentine asado.
“It’s the one thing that cannot be missing,” says Gastón about one of the most beloved parts of the ritual: lighting the fire. “Like in relationships, it should never be lacking. Making a lot of fire when making an asado is super important.”
Another tip: save some fruit tree wood to perfume the meats on the grill. “You can cook with apple tree, vine, olive tree, pear tree, or peach tree,” explains Gastón.
Selecting the raw material is one of the most valuable steps. That’s when the asado begins: “From a good raw material comes the final result of a great asador,” predicts Gastón. “When we talk about having a good go-to butcher, it’s like having a family doctor, meaning a butcher who sells you the best merchandise to dazzle your guests with excellent raw material.” He also recommends asking the go-to butcher for a central asado cut, with 5 or 6 ribs, “and you will find the best part of this cut.”
“Always, take it out of the fridge and leave it for 30 minutes to come to room temperature,” says the owner of La Cabrera. When we talk about tempering the meat to room temperature, we mean about 20°C to 25°C, according to Riveira. This step is crucial because it allows the meat to reach a uniform temperature inside and out before cooking it. “That way, we’ll reach cooking temperature much faster and achieve spectacular juiciness,” he assures us.
Oh, and don’t forget to season the meat. It doesn’t need much. “Salt, pepper, and nutmeg, the perfect seasoning for meat,” he declares.
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This detail changes everything. “Round iron offers a uniform cooking surface and also makes the fat drip directly onto the charcoal or wood, perfuming the meats at the same time.” In fact, at La Cabrera, they prefer iron with round profiles for better cooking and smoking. “V-shaped iron provides different cooking than what we use, but every little master has their own book, and every little griller has their own book,” he emphasizes.
How do you know if the grill heat is sufficient to put the meat on? It’s very simple, with this trick from Gastón: “Place your hand over the grill, start counting, if you can’t get to five, that’s the moment!” Yes, the palm of your hand will indicate if the temperature is right to place the meat.
When guests arrive, the show begins. When all the meat is on the grill, no one should rush us because, according to Gastón, the asado cannot be hurried. “People must wait for the asado and not the asado for the people,” he explains. That’s why “the prelude” is the perfect time to open a great wine. “Good meat and good Malbec,” the formula for a happy griller, according to this asado expert.
And what does this go with? An ideal question for the chef because, precisely, in his restaurant, the side dishes are iconic. The meat is accompanied by a set of small casseroles, with various creative combinations, “which are quite elaborate and showcase different cooking techniques,” clarifies Gastón. And he confesses: “If you let me choose, fries with a fried egg and a good grilled meat is what gets me.” Although grilled potatoes are also very good: “The best is potato with salt wrapped in aluminum foil. You serve it with butter, pepper, and some herb like fresh oregano. Maybe a little Parmesan and some cheese like Finlandia, it’s an outstanding side dish for the meats.”
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