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[title]Many restaurants and culinary ventures in Buenos Aires build their narrative around the memories of chefs recalling the food their grandmothers used to make. For example, Ezequiel López Batista and his “Arrozconlechería” seek to recreate the aromas and flavors that transport them back to childhood and their grandmothers’ kitchens.
But in some cases, it’s the grandmothers themselves—already retired—who take charge of the kitchen and customer service. This creates a deeper sense of connection with patrons. Here are two stories of restaurants run by senior women.
Meet the Grandmother Chefs
In the heart of Villa Crespo, on a quiet corner where neighbors still greet each other and wash their sidewalks daily, you’ll find El Pasaje, also known as the “Grandmothers’ Tavern.”
This restaurant is like an extension of the home of its owners—two Uruguayan women, María del Carmen and Teresita La Paz, aged 84 and 88. These ladies start their day before dawn to open the restaurant at 7:30 AM, following a routine they have maintained for nearly four decades.
El Pasaje—located at Rojas 2050—is much more than just a restaurant. It is the result of the hard work and passion of these sisters, who arrived in Buenos Aires in 1983 after selling a property in Montevideo.
“With the money, it made more sense to start a business here,” recalls María del Carmen as she carefully wipes down a table. Their lives changed completely when they decided to open the restaurant and learn the secrets of gastronomy on the go. Before this, María del Carmen worked in an office and only cooked for her family, while Teresita had more kitchen experience, having taken over after their mother’s passing.
Over the years, they faced many challenges, including a battle with cancer that forced them to take a break but never to give up. “I believe staying active, both physically and mentally, helped us recover,” reflects María del Carmen, convinced that their daily work was as powerful a remedy as medical treatment.
The menu at El Pasaje reflects the love and tradition infused into every dish. Each day, they offer two new meal options, along with house classics like meatballs with mashed potatoes, oven-roasted meats, tripe or lentil stews, and traditional desserts like flan, bread pudding, and rice pudding. “Everything is made as if it were for our own family,” María del Carmen emphasizes.
“Everything is made as if it were for our own family”, María del Carmen Paz.
Today, the La Paz sisters have earned a special place in Buenos Aires’ culinary scene, with customers affectionately calling them “the girls.” “As long as our bodies allow it, we’ll keep cooking,” they affirm, making it clear that their passion has no expiration date.
The Social Role of a Restaurant
Another inspiring example is Las Nonas Ramona y Petrona, a restaurant in Villa Crespo (Tres Arroyos 399) run by Débora and Diego. The couple moved to Buenos Aires from Tucumán, dreaming of building a future. But what sets their restaurant apart isn’t just its traditional menu—it’s their social mission. They decided to hire staff over 60 years old, not only to ensure committed employees but also to provide job opportunities for retirees seeking extra income.
Before this venture, Débora and Diego faced tough times. When Diego lost his job and Débora was pregnant, they started selling homemade empanadas. Soon, their grandmothers’ recipes became their signature, shaping a business that blends traditional flavors with a meaningful purpose.
The high turnover of young employees in the restaurant industry led them to rethink their hiring strategy. Faced with the challenge of retaining staff, they found the perfect solution in senior workers—responsible, dedicated individuals who deeply appreciated the chance to be active members of society again.
"You walk into the kitchen, and it's all smiles. The work environment is amazing. They are incredibly committed and reliable. They truly value being given this opportunity at this stage of their lives," says Débora.
"Senior employees are incredibly committed and reliable", Débora
The Roots of Flavor
Las Nonas Ramona y Petrona is Débora’s tribute to her grandmothers. Their daily menu features classics like empanadas, milanesas, homemade ravioli, and arroz con pollo (chicken and rice). Each dish carries a story, aiming to bring diners closer to the flavors of the past—all at affordable prices suited to today's economy.
The recipes come from her family: the empanadas are inspired by Petrona, while the pasta dishes are Ramona’s legacy. The result is a menu infused with tradition, love, and a commitment to keeping Tucumán’s culinary heritage alive.
Mónica, one of the employees, proudly shares how she travels over two hours from González Catán to work. "I try never to miss a day and always arrive early so I can share some mate with my coworkers before starting," she explains.
Débora notes that most employees tend to arrive before their shifts. "Partly out of eagerness, but also because, for them, 7 AM is already late. They wake up very early," she says.
Mónica, in charge of making Tucumán-style empanadas, among other tasks, is already set to begin her workday. "I see this restaurant as an extension of my home. That’s why I love being here and spending time, even while working," she shares.
Where: Las Nonas Ramona y Petrona, Tres Arroyos 399, Villa Crespo. Reservations: 11 6459-2985 El Pasaje, Rojas 2050, Villa Crespo. Reservations: 11 4581-51170.