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The highlights of gastronomy 2024, according to Time Out Buenos Aires

The openings, the revelations, and everything that happened in the gastronomic scene this year.

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We are closing our first year in Buenos Aires with a recap of the most outstanding moments in gastronomy for 2024. Without a doubt, it was a year that reflected the tremendous growth the country has seen in the gastronomic field: global recognition, continuous high-quality openings despite the crisis, a constant search for its own identity, and more.

1. Opening of the Year: Evelia

By far, Evelia is the opening of the year, for what Máximo Togni means in the Buenos Aires gastro scene, for the quality of its dishes, for the ambiance, and for its resounding success that exceeded expectations and is sustained through word-of-mouth. To get a table at Evelia, you need to be quick and stay alert when reservations open because they fill up fast.

Togni continues to bet on popular food done excellently. Pizzas, coffee, hamburgers, and hot dogs were his previous steps. Now, the stars of the menu are the homemade pastas, which the chef insists are inspired by his grandmother, who gives the restaurant its name.

The breadbasket with special butter is one of the best in Buenos Aires. Among the starters, the burratina and asparagus with hollandaise sauce stand out. For pasta, there are short, long, and stuffed varieties. The pesto gnocchi are perfectly Italian and simple—made with pine nuts and Grana Padano. The desserts are small pieces of art, with the dulce de leche frozen bonbon paraded around the room constantly.

This is Evelia, the most elaborate and personal project by Togni and his partner Martín Arrieta, which could easily be a surprise next year in the Michelin Guide.

Tip: If you get the chance to visit twice, on your first visit order all the starters. Focus on those first-course portions that are more spectacular than the last. On your second visit, we recommend trying the pastas.

Where: Campos Salles 1712, Nuñez.

2. Revelation of the Year: Ness, the Return of Leo Lanussol

Leo Lanussol's return to the kitchen was highly anticipated in Argentine gastronomy and it burst onto the scene in 2024 as a revelation. The creator of the legendary Proper was the one who introduced the "small plate" concept to the local scene, a trend that was—and still is—replicated ad nauseam. Leo returned changed, and this year he opened Ness in the Nuñez neighborhood. The wait was worth it; his proposal is completely different. While back then he reinterpreted Spanish tapas, now he has done the same with the Spanish “mesón” concept: large, abundant, generous dishes that do not skimp on quality or ingredients.

He defines himself as very basic when it comes to cooking. “I come with a Japanese background that says not to mess too much with the product and avoid mixing the flavors,” he tells Time Out. Today, he wants his Ness—named after his passion for bands like The Ramones and Madness—to become a classic. Leo wants no one to leave without trying his dishes. That’s why he designed two types of tickets: a wine bar with a more affordable alternative menu and the main room for a complete experience.

The Ness menu, from every angle, is tempting. The dishes are abundant and you can order half portions. There are vegetarian-style starters and main courses that highlight a central protein in each dish. The chernia, served as a soufflé, is spectacular, and the crispy chili pork is pure innovation.

Tip: If the meal at Ness is out of your budget, you can visit the wine bar in front of the venue. There, you’ll spend half the price and still enjoy their gastronomy paired with a glass of wine.

Where: Grecia 3691, Nuñez.

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3. The Year of Fish: A Debt the City by the River Had

Buenos Aires is a city by the river and has the sea just around the corner, but it had a significant debt: there was almost no high-quality fish gastronomic offer. But something changed, and in 2024, a trend that had been growing solidified. Numerous restaurants dedicated to fish opened and thrived, and many others began seriously including fish on their menus, not just to fill space.

Omakase restaurants are a clear example of the evolution of fish. The monopoly of pink salmon has been dethroned, and the variety now colors new proposals. A prime example is Nika, the innovative and surprising project that includes collaborations and a unique Japanese brunch in the city.

It’s impossible not to mention always-relevant classics like Crizia and Oviedo. But among the new players making a splash with different proposals, we highlight: Ultramarinos, chef Maxi Rossi's venture, Mare By Fran, the proposal by Mar del Plata native Francisco Rosat, and for an alternative option, Condarco by Pablo Fridman.

Tip: The list is far too short; there are many more proposals that will likely be covered in another article. What’s clear is that fish is here to stay, and the explosion is happening in restaurants, but it’s still waiting to reach Argentine homes.

Where: Mare: Alicia Moreau de Justo 1170, Puerto Madero. Nika: Nicaragua 5952, Palermo Ultramarinos: Arribeños 1980, Belgrano. Condarco: Av. Dorrego 901, Villa Crespo. Crizia: Fitz Roy 1819, Palermo. Oviedo: Beruti 2602, Recoleta.

4. Devoto: The Neighborhood That Exploded with Gastronomy

At one point, Palermo was saturated, and innovation began migrating to other neighborhoods. Chacarita, Colegiales, and Villa Crespo were the first to kick off. Devoto saw some gastronomic growth, but this year, the proposals were refined, and it fully exploded with its own identity.

Also of interest: The best restaurants in Buenos Aires

The arrival of new ventures like Raíx, a beautiful restaurant led by Julián Díaz and Hernán Sondereguer, which functions as a cooperative, is an example of high cuisine that’s relaxed and joyful. Ávito Café, set up in a 120-year-old convent, created a space that is both modern and classic, offering comfort food. Café de García, the reopening of a classic neighborhood spot, returned revamped but with its original café furniture. Romesco closes the love for this neighborhood with a tight menu of tapas and wine, offering a clear tribute to Spanish cuisine.

Tip: On Sundays, Raíx has a very pleasant offering where you get to choose the ingredients separately and they prepare a more affordable menu than usual. It's worth visiting.

Where: Raíx: Asunción 4405. Avito Café: Pareja 3670. Café de García: Sanabria 3302. Romesco: Av. Gral. Mosconi 4283.

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5. The Year of Argentine Cocktails

Argentine cocktails—here’s our selection of the best bars in Buenos Aires—continue to grow, with no ceiling in sight, and are becoming increasingly recognized worldwide. This year, for the first time, Argentina has a top ten ranking on the global stage.

Tres Monos, founded by Sebastián Atienza and Carlos Aguinsky, achieved the 7th spot on the prestigious list The World's 50 Best Bars and was number 1 in South America. Conchinchina Bar and the classic Florería Atlántico supported this growth.

But it’s not just about the awards. It’s a sector that’s gaining more and more space in gastronomy. Every new restaurant now considers in detail what kind of bar to open to offer a unique experience. And perhaps it’s the one area where the differences of gender are no longer discussed. Mona Gallosi and her bar Punto Mona, Inés de los Santos—read our interview with the Argentine cocktail queen—who opened her bar a year ago with Narda Lepes, Kona Bar, Agostina Elena and Sabrina Traverso, and the great Sofá, Flavia Arroyo with her highly consolidated bar at Casa Cavia, are just some examples of a scene that’s diversifying and no longer depends exclusively on imported drinks but connects heavily with local products.

Tip: If you visit Kona, make sure to end the night singing loudly at the karaoke. The room is exclusively reserved for groups of 5 to 10 people.

Where: Tres Monos: Guatemala 4899, Palermo. Cochinchina Bar: Armenia 1540, Palermo. Florería Atlántico: Arroyo 872, Retiro. Kona Bar: Castañeda 1899, Palermo. Punto Mona: Fraga 93, Palermo Soho. Sofá Bar: Av. Dorrego 1301, Villa Crespo. Casa Cavia: Cavia 2985, Palermo.

6. The Rise of Seasonal Products

If there was one outstanding issue in Argentine cuisine, it was the connection with the producer. It was a widespread problem to see menus that never changed from summer to winter. This has been changing in recent years, and in 2024, the projects that use the concept of "Seasonal Cuisine" as an indispensable standard stood out. They work directly with producers, adjusting their menus based on what the land yields.

An emblematic case this year, for example, was the artichoke. A strong frost in the La Plata region ruined many chefs' plans. However, they reached out to producers, like the well-known Alcachofas Platenses group, to figure out how to help each other. In the second batch, with better weather, everyone added dishes featuring the most prized flower in gastronomy.

Some of the most emblematic cases in Buenos Aires that elevate seasonal products include: Centro, by chef Fernando Golabek, a beautiful restaurant on the ground floor of an Art Deco building in Caballito; Reliquia, a project by young chefs who work exclusively with seasonal vegetables for their ferments and preserves; Cauce de los Fuegos, which embraced sustainable production with pasture-raised meat and a well-curated menu of seasonal grilled vegetables, earning a spot in the Michelin Guide; and now, with the start of tomato season, the work being done at El Preferido, with ancestral seeds aimed at recovering the original American tomato flavor.

Tip: Sundays at Centro, located in the heart of Caballito, are a true pleasure. Enjoy brunch on the sidewalk in a small plaza with fresh products and specialty coffee.

Where: Centro: Dr. Juan Felipe Aranguren 928, Caballito. Reliquia: Ángel Justiniano Carranza 1601, Palermo. Cauce de los fuegos: Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 440, Puerto Madero. El Preferido de Palermo: Jorge Luis Borges 2108, Palermo.

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7. The Evolution of Specialty Coffee Shops

The pandemic couldn’t stop what was coming as a boom; it only delayed it a bit before it exploded. Today, there’s no Buenos Aires neighborhood without several specialty coffee shops. After much debate about coffee temperature and recipe names like Flat White or Magic, the pendulum has swung back, and baristas and coffee drinkers have found a balance, making peace, with coffee shops offering options for all tastes and preferences.

However, the offer grew so much that drinking good coffee is now a commodity; it’s no longer a rarity, and consumers now demand more. Now, every new coffee shop needs to bring a gastronomic proposal that offers something unique.

Pampa Café, by Lucas Canga and Tomás Couriel, is one of the year's standout openings – check out more 2024 openings in this article. It’s a spacious, modern, and comfortable place to enjoy the best pastries and baked goods. La Ventana de Anafe is the more street-level evolution of the project led by Nicolás Arcucci and Micaela Najmanovich. The display of products at the entrance counter is simply sublime. La Kitchen started as a café but has evolved so much that even the owners can’t define it anymore. However, at their new location in Villa Ortúzar, they continue to make an impact with their cuisine, and their fosforito remains undefeated as the best in the city. Barragán, which functions as a Mexican lunch spot and coffee shop, is the ideal place for a Sunday brunch mixing croissants and tacos.

Tip: Don't miss Pampa Café and try their two unique items: the croissant and scrambled eggs. A sublime way to elevate something simple.

Where: Pampa Café: La Pampa 1117, Belgrano. La Ventana de Anafe: Arévalo 1375, Palermo. La Kitchen: Rosetti 1360, Villa Ortúzar. Barragán: Nicasio Oroño 1195, Caballito.

8. You Don’t Live on Salad: The Parrillitas Are No Longer What They Used to Be

A new wave of ranchers, producers, butchers, grill masters, and chefs have started exploring beyond traditional cuts, completely redefining the concept of meat consumption. In line with the changing times in gastronomy, the parrilla (grill) couldn’t be excluded from the search for Argentine identity through its emblematic product: beef.

Also of interest: The best steakhouses in Buenos Aires

This entrepreneurial spirit is behind many and varied projects. The rising Madre Rojas in Villa Crespo, led by Juan Barcos, a key member of the family that brought Wagyu beef to Argentina, is one such place. It embraces terroir, emphasizing animal welfare. In Núñez, Corte Comedor has established itself as a contemporary parrilla with its own butcher shop. They age the meat they select and pay attention to every detail of their cuts. The iconic La Cabrera has made the Tomahawk steak a house specialty, while Lo de Jesús and its T-bone have achieved classic status. Somos Asado, a parrilla with no grill, cooks everything in a wood oven with a dry aging process.

Tip: Don’t forget to check out the salad and side dishes menu at Corte Comedor; they’re just as impressive as their meats.

Where: Madre Rojas: Rojas 1600, Villa Crespo. Corte Comedor: Av. Olazábal 1391, Nuñez. La Cabrera: José Antonio Cabrera 5127, Palermo. Lo de Jesús: Gurruchaga 1406. Palermo. Somos Asado: Av. Scalabrini Ortiz 651, Villa Crespo.

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9. Azafrán, High-End Dining Made in Mendoza

Without a doubt, Azafrán is the biggest reference in the burgeoning Mendoza culinary scene. A remarkable fine dining concept, Azafrán offers a sensory journey. Chef Sebastián Weigandt, who continues to win awards and global recognition, is the mastermind behind it.

Azafrán's menu is sophisticated, featuring products from remote locations, with every detail thoughtfully considered, including the design of the tableware and linens. Azafrán offers two menu options: Paseo por Mendoza, a six-course journey through the province’s corners and producers, and Paseo por Argentina, a ten-course adventure with ingredients, flavors, and textures that represent Argentina as a whole. Each menu includes a wine pairing specially crafted by sommelier Cami Torta.

Tip: In November, Azafrán ranked #84 in Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants 2024. Check out the full list of winners here.

Where: Av. Sarmiento 765, Mendoza City.

10. Naranjo, the Wine That Came to Stir Up Controversy and Stayed

The wine world was peaceful with its traditional divisions until Naranjo arrived. This wine, made from white grapes but gaining ground among reds, has caused quite a stir in Argentina. Its production is relatively new, but recently, Naranjo has made a significant mark, and today, no trendy wine list is complete without it. If you don’t have a Naranjo, or if you don’t talk about it in the wine world, you’re irrelevant.

Like any revolution, it’s now time to separate the wheat from the chaff, the wines that need more work from those that are already at the level of their red and white cousins. A quick tour might be a bit unfair, but it’s helpful for those new to this flavor. We recommend the approachable and accessible El Porvenir Pequeñas Fermentaciones Naranjo and Naranjo de Pulenta Estate, recently released. Finally, Solito Va Naranjo is a complex – but fresh – wine that has already earned its first award (Best Wine 2024, Guía Descorchados). All are affordable.

Tip: The ideal time to start exploring Naranjo wine is summer. It’s a fresh wine that pairs perfectly with cheese and fruit platters.

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11. The Year of Awards and Recognition for Argentine Cuisine

In recent years, the identity of a new Argentine cuisine has been emerging, albeit chaotically and anarchically. There’s a lot of discussion, debate, and insurmountable divides, but there’s also a growing camaraderie among both new and veteran figures shaping our culinary landscape.

This year, 2024, saw a strong harvest from this effort. The first full year of the Michelin Guide in Argentina was a major milestone, and we share what we love most about each of the selected restaurants. The arrival of the Guide gave a huge boost to local restaurants. This was the year of Aramburu’s two-star recognition and the rise of Trescha and its chef Tomás Treschanski, who dazzles at just 27.

It was also the year of the Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants 2024, where Don Julio emerged as the country’s great ambassador with its fine dining-style parrilla.

Tip: Bars, wines, cheeses, and even spirits have also secured prominent spots in several global rankings.

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