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[title]Eclectic and pioneering are two adjectives that could well define Máximo Togni in his role as a chef. The latter was granted to him when, after living in the United States for 8 years, he returned to Argentina and decided to open Dogg, a hot dog and hamburger spot with premium ingredients in the American style.
“At that time, I felt there was no quality fast food with the same products you’d find in a fine dining restaurant. I saw something that hadn’t been developed. No chef like me was applying their experience to a project like that,” Máximo explains in a conversation with Time Out. This first project was followed by others: Togni’s Pizza and Togni’s Café.
What led you to the decision to bring New York-style pizza to Buenos Aires?
I never wanted to call it New York pizza because, even though we have the size of a pizza in that style, the dough is different technically. I was very young when I was in the United States, and it was super normal to leave a restaurant at night and go have a slice of pepperoni pizza. For me, it’s the best pizza emotionally and in terms of flavor. A slice of pepperoni seems perfect because it has the best combination of fat, acidity, spice, and sweetness. That makes it very well-rounded.
A slice of pepperoni seems perfect because it has the best combination of fat, acidity, spice, and sweetness.
The menu at Togni’s Pizza has three sections: pizza by the slice, thick crust pizza, and a giant round pizza (with a thinner crust). What do they all have in common? Organic flour, natural fermentation, and excellent quality. “I think beer and pizza is a great combination,” says Máximo, although he admits he doesn’t usually drink alcoholic beverages.
So, we create the pairings: Mozzarella, Sweet Chili Sauce, Fried Chicken, and Scallions go perfectly with a refreshing Imperial Golden to mellow out the spiciness of the chili; an Imperial IPA can complement Mozzarella, Eggplant, Pesto, and Parmesan, and if we choose Máximo's favorite, we can go with Mozzarella, Pepperoni, and Parmesan with an Imperial Extra Lager.
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From pizza to specialty coffee
Speaking of Togni’s Café, what inspired you to open it? Where did the idea for your famous cookies come from?
I love pastry. With my experience in the U.S. and my trips to Paris, since my girlfriend has lived in France for 9 years, the idea of merging both patisseries came up. I got the idea from a famous French industrial cookie and designed the chocolate with a candy factory in New York. It took us a lot of time and remote work. I’ve always thought that cookies in Argentina are very bad. There’s nothing industrial or semi-industrial of good quality. I thought that developing this cookie with better quality and selling it in a shop would be powerful. At some point, I’d love to sell it in stores with a quality you can’t find here.
I thought that developing this cookie with better quality and selling it in a shop would be powerful.
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From specialty coffee to star restaurant
2024 was the year of Evelia, a very different project from those he had been developing, and the one that earned him the second adjective we chose to describe him: eclectic.
“The success of Evelia is the result of years of work, three successful previous projects. The trust of people and the expectation of opening a restaurant with what I showed the most on social media and in the dishes I made,” he explains. Evelia was chosen as the opening of the year in 2024’s highlights.
The success of Evelia is the result of years of work, three successful previous projects.
Máximo Togni travels to learn, to try, and to be inspired. From there, he incorporates and works deeply on the concepts of his brands. He was a pioneer in fast food, but with Evelia, he managed to show another of his sides linked more to the emotional, familial, and homemade aspects, and it was also a huge success. He studied and perfected recipes for hot dogs and pizzas, but he also managed to create a superior industrial cookie that he now sells at his own café.
One question we always ask at Time Out is, what places do you usually choose when you go out to eat in Buenos Aires?
The truth is, I travel a lot during the year, about 60 or 70 days. That’s when I love to plan and go to places and destinations where I can see something I like or look for inspiration. Honestly, when I’m in Argentina, I don’t go out much. When I’m here, I dedicate a lot of time to work and to being in my places. My moments of inspiration and going to places are when I’m relaxed.
What’s next for the future?
We’re working on a project that we plan to start in November or December of this year. But I don’t want to say too much because I have two concepts in mind. One, I think, is winning, but I’m not fully decided yet. Evelia was very intense, and I still feel there’s a lot to improve and we need to dedicate more time. Honestly, I need a little rest and then decide which project to pursue, but we’ll likely be opening something new in 2026.
Evelia was very intense, and I still feel there’s a lot to improve and we need to dedicate more time.
Although we don’t know exactly what Máximo Togni’s next project will be, we are certain of one thing: it will be a success like all his predecessors. It will surely also make waves in a gastronomic scene that always values pioneers and eccentrics.