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[title]“I am Mauro Colagreco, and I have a small restaurant called Mirazur in the south of France.” That brief and humble statement is how the chef, born in La Plata 47 years ago, introduces himself in videos requested for social media.
He doesn’t mention the three Michelin stars—he is the only Argentine chef to have earned them and the first foreigner in France to do so—nor that Mirazur was chosen as the best restaurant in the world in 2019 by the 50 Best ranking. He also doesn't mention that today Colagreco has built a true empire under his name, spanning from fine dining to bakeries, pizzerias, and burger joints in cities like London, Tokyo, Brussels, Monaco, Hong Kong, Riyadh.
One of his most recent and ambitious projects was the opening of two restaurants inside the Old War Office, the former Ministry of War in London. This Baroque-style seven-story building with a thousand rooms reopened as the super-luxury Raffles hotel after a six-year renovation.
Colagreco has now lived more years in France than he did in Argentina, where he studied at the Gato Dumas cooking school and began the career that would take him farther than any other local chef. He returns to the country two or three times a year, as he did this time, to preside over the jury of the Grand Prix Baron B, which rewards sustainable gastronomic projects linked to the community (this year’s winner was Gunther Moros from Misiones for his work at the Margay reserve). We interviewed him for the first time to get to know him in a more intimate light.
During your time in Buenos Aires, did you have time to go out to eat?
I arrived the night before last and I'm leaving on Friday, but I’d love to. I only visited Italpast at the Faena hotel.
And generally, where do you like to go?
Don Julio, Aramburu, and I still have Marti on my list. I’m interested in the work Germán Martitegui is doing with vegetables.
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How do you see the impact of Michelin stars in Argentina?
I found it very positive. I think it gave a big boost to gastronomy in Buenos Aires and Mendoza, and now many chefs are dreaming that the guide will someday reach their provinces. It really made a difference in the development of projects and in the energy it generated among chefs and customers alike. I’ve met many people who talk to me about the Michelin Guide or ask if I’ve been to this or that restaurant that’s included.
At the same time, it’s a difficult moment for Argentine gastronomy: many are facing half-empty or empty restaurants or are thinking of new concepts to navigate this situation.
It’s a tough time, I would say, globally. There’s a lot of uncertainty. There are many political and geopolitical problems, many wars. In these challenging times, you have to be very flexible, you need to know how to adapt, and you have to keep in mind that those who work best will survive, and those who perhaps have less coherence and capacity to adapt will suffer more. It’s a regrettable reality, but it will be so.
“In difficult times, you need to be very flexible and know how to adapt”
What can you tell me about the Argentine wine project you are involved in?
We’re seeing if it comes out this year or next. I love wine; I’ve always curated Mirazur’s wine list with my sommelier. We’ve become friends. The idea is to create a brand that encompasses different expressions of Argentine terroirs and from the country’s top winemakers and oenologists. We want to give space to the three, four, or five oenologists we find interesting for some special reason. We started with Matías Michelini and a Pinot Noir from Mendoza, something entirely different from what one might expect, which is Malbec.
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Are there any other Argentina-related projects on your radar?
We’re continuing with the Carne brand. We’re in La Plata, and we opened a franchise in Buenos Aires that’s doing well. We’re also in Saudi Arabia, Brussels, and now we’re signing to launch in several airports around the world. It’s a project that started in Argentina but is expanding significantly worldwide. We now have an event with Carne in Greece.
And in Chile?
No, in Chile it went very badly because we ended up with people who scammed us. A bad surprise.
Do you appreciate these setbacks from time to time?
Of course, you learn from your mistakes, not your successes.
"You learn from your mistakes, not your successes"
Which project are you dedicating the most time to? Which one has your heart?
The project that I’m putting a lot of energy and heart into is a farm we just signed on. It’s about 20 hectares, 30 minutes from Mirazur, in the mountains, where we’re going to build a few rooms and a very small restaurant for 20 people. We will produce 100% of what we use in the restaurant on the farm. It’s a beautiful project.
And London?
It’s very important. And the work we’re doing is beautiful. It’s totally different from Mirazur, although it has a similar backbone. It’s the first time I’m opening in such a major European city like London. It’s a very important and competitive market.
You’re from La Plata, middle class. And now you move among the elite. What’s it like being in a world where one day you’re with Xi Jinping and Macron or the most powerful people on the planet?
Those people also need to have normal people around them, who can make them feel normal. They have lives I wouldn’t wish on my kids because even just moving around requires incredible logistics; they can’t move freely like we do. I’ve become friends with some of them. I just came from the birthday of the former French President François Hollande, I go out to eat with people who have big boats and houses, but I think being genuine and being yourself is what attracts those people the most. The chance to meet them comes from my position and my work, but what makes the relationship last is treating them as equals.
Do you feel like one of them?
No, I wouldn’t want to be in their shoes, but it’s nice to be there occasionally. Visiting incredible places, experiencing situations I wouldn’t have imagined.
Do you have any unfulfilled dreams?
Life surprises me a lot. It’s always nice to cook for important people, movie stars. This year, we did a pop-up on one of the terraces in Cannes and saw all the greats of European and American cinema pass by: I checked off a pretty big box there. But I like to cook for people who have a certain sensitivity. Because many of those people may not care about gastronomy, and maybe you dream of cooking for someone, and the person doesn’t care. One of the people I most enjoyed cooking for was Robert De Niro.
"One of the people I most enjoyed cooking for was Robert De Niro"
Why?
Because he’s someone who loves gastronomy. He’s interested, he comes to talk to you. I cooked for him at Mirazur and in Madrid, at a dinner just for him and his wife.
Off topic: Have you seen The Bear? Do you think it accurately reflects the world of gastronomy?
Everyone keeps talking to me about that series, but I haven’t had time to watch it yet. Is it the one where he ends up killing everyone?
No, that’s the movie The Menu
I have to watch that too!
Let’s talk about the evolution of the Grand Prix Baron B. How has the award changed from the first edition to today?
The first one was very difficult because what we were aiming for was to create a culinary award that was totally different from the others. The idea wasn’t to reward a dish or a technique but a project and its impact, the socioeconomic interest of that project. The first year, many of the candidates didn’t understand why they hadn’t been selected among the three finalists if technically the dish might have finished first in another competition. Every year I see a more defined, clearer message. The truth is that I’m very satisfied because 85% of the hundred-plus who applied were focused. It was very difficult to choose the three finalists among the last 15. Nowadays, most are very solid and very coherent.