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[title]We spoke with Juan Pablo Caorsi, managing partner of Lo de Jesús, about the history of the restaurant that has become a Palermo landmark, the secrets to staying relevant, and the upcoming projects.
Lo de Jesús is a Palermo classic. How and when did you take charge of the restaurant?
We started managing it with my partner in 2003. Up until that point, Lo de Jesús was a grocery store founded and run by Jesús Pernas, a Spaniard who came to Buenos Aires in 1953 and opened his store in the Palermo neighborhood. Initially, we set up a traditional eatery, but in 2008 we transformed it into a grill to align with the trend emerging in the area. Our motto was "grill and vermouth," honoring the vermouth that Jesús Pernas served. However, over the years, we shifted our focus to providing better service concerning meat and wines, and our motto became "the temple of meat and wine."
The wine list has always been important at Lo de Jesús...
Yes, in fact, at one point it was curated by Elizabeth Checa—a journalist specializing in wines who passed away in 2022—who was a friend of the house. Over time, we opened La Malbequería next door, which is the restaurant’s wine shop, and for the past few years, the wine list has been curated by sommelier Fabricio Portelli.
But the absolute star of Lo de Jesús is the meat!
Yes, our strength has always been grilled meats. However, over time and as the restaurant evolved, we’ve delved deeper and refined our approach to meat. We began working with a meat aging system called wet aging. Additionally, we have a meat expert responsible for selecting cuts at the source, meaning he works for us in the slaughterhouses where we buy our meat and pre-selects the cuts we will receive. Once the meat arrives at the restaurant, it comes vacuum-sealed in whole pieces, and we handle the aging process.
Do you carry out the meat aging process at the restaurant?
Yes. The meat ages with its juices in a cold chamber with controlled humidity and temperature.
New trends are constantly emerging in gastronomy. How do you respond to innovations?
The truth is that besides being a classic place, our gastronomic proposal is also classic because it's all about grilled meats. Of course, there’s always some pasta or fish, but our main focus is meat. Essentially, there isn't much room to go gourmet or innovate.
Still, you always stay on-trend because you have guidance from a highly recognized chef…
Yes, we work with advice from Darío Gualtieri, a high-end chef. He has put his mark on the place and introduced trends in the side dishes for the meats. We work with organic, seasonal vegetables, and local producers. We’ve also incorporated some cuts like the Tomahawk or T-bone, which are not found in traditional grills. Now, in our upcoming opening, the meat bar, we will have more opportunities to play with trends because the dishes will be small, more like appetizers…
"We work with advice from Darío Gualtieri, a high-end chef"
Let’s delve into the meat bar you’re about to open. What’s it all about?
We are finishing up a major renovation and finalizing details because we’re planning to move La Malbequería next door, allowing each brand and venue to have its independence. Each will have its own space and unique proposal. The space currently occupied by the wine shop will be used to expand Lo de Jesús. La Malbequería, now as a wine bar specializing in Malbec, will have its own location with a different menu: more relaxed dishes, still with meat as the star of the menu, of course. It will also have a terrace with a prominent cocktail bar. We plan to launch it in mid-October, right next to Lo de Jesús.
Also of interest: The Best steakhouses in Buenos Aires
Why do you think people continue to choose you amidst so much variety and competition?
Definitely because of the service. With hard work and a bit of time, you can achieve a good product and a good atmosphere. However, I believe the most challenging aspect is the human side, and that’s where we put most of our effort because if you go to a place and your steak is too rare, the fries took too long, or they forgot your water, a good service, personalized attention, and the ability to correct the error will leave a positive impression. On the other hand, if the food and drinks were amazing and the place was beautiful, but you were served with a bad attitude, you’ll leave with a negative impression. So, I think providing good service and focusing on the human aspect of the team allows you to make up for mistakes and overcome any shortcomings.
And it seems to be working because you’ve been around for over two decades…
Yes, and I also think people choose us because we are constantly investing in the business. Long-time customers have experienced countless changes in the product, service, and infrastructure—in many aspects! We are continually training, looking at how we can improve. I think that entrepreneurial attitude, always being willing to change and improve, also plays a significant role.
"Also, customers choose us because we are constantly investing in the business"
There’s also something about the familiarity of the place that adds a lot…
We have customers who have become friends of the house or tourists who visit repeatedly, and everyone mentions how comfortable they feel, like they’re at home. We are very flexible with our customers. For example, if they don’t like their table, we change it. If they want a different area than the one reserved, if possible, we accommodate. If they want something different from the menu, we try to satisfy them. We also never rush the tables; you’ll never feel pressured to leave or pay the bill. It may sound clichéd to say we want the customer to feel at home, but besides saying it, we execute it because we feel at home at Lo de Jesús too. We convey what we experience firsthand.
"We are very flexible with our customers"
Where: Gurruchaga 1406, Palermo.