The tranquil life of the countryside is a magnet for those of us who are city dwellers. Perhaps that's why the proposal of visiting the taverns and old general stores in Buenos Aires is so attractive. Here, history is blended with appetizers, empanadas, stews, barbecues, and homemade pasta.
There are few taverns still in operation. According to records, the first dates back to 1600. As journalist and author Leandro Vesco, founder of the NGO Proyecto Pulpería, explains, "They operated as relay stations to replace the horses of carriages and provide them with fodder and water." "A network of relay stations was created along the royal roads. People would have a drink or eat some jerky before continuing," he explains.
Over time, a counter was established, and where only beverages were served, other goods began to be sold, and some tables were added. In the 19th century, towns began to be established around taverns and forts. The shops evolved into the famous "general stores."
But beyond supplying travelers, the tavern had—and still has—a fundamental social role. "It was the only possible meeting place for gauchos in the vastness and solitude of the pampas. There, as some gauchesque poetry suggests, people could continue talking," describes historian Felipe Pigna on his website.
The taverns that remain standing preserve that essence of a refuge for those passing through. They invite us to connect with relaxation and simplicity, and to enjoy the slow pace of village life. Here are some that are quite close to the Federal Capital and are worth visiting.
Founded in 1880, it is one of the oldest taverns in the country still in operation. It served as a relay station, beverage shop, general store, and also a social club. Its façade stands out: it's a chapel-shaped building, elevated so it would be visible across the vast pampas.
Tip: You can’t leave without trying the fried empanadas.
Where: 20 km from Baradero, about 145 km from CABA.
This brick corner in San Andrés de Giles will catch the eye of any passerby. It started as a general store in 1901, built by Eleuterio Rodríguez, an Asturian immigrant. It is also known as "Boliche de García," after Juan Pedro García, who took over the business in 1944. It’s an ideal spot to meet and chat over a vermouth. It is undoubtedly a “material testimony of an era,” as indicated by its designation as a "Significant Municipal Interest Site."
Tip: The appetizer with mortadella and cheese is the most praised item on the menu.
Where: Morgan Access and Soldado Maciel, San Andrés de Giles (110 km from CABA).
Established in 1830, this is another of Argentina's oldest operational taverns. Here, the last recognized tavern keeper, Cacho di Catarina, worked; today, the business is run by his nieces. Both its interior and the familiar flavors on the menu offer an unforgettable trip to the past.
Tip: The house specialty is “empanadas de Cacho,” a special family recipe of meat, fried with a spicy touch. Also try the locro on national holidays and the lentil, tripe, and carrero stews.
Where: Calle 29 and Río, Mercedes (about 105 km from CABA).
An old general store from 1905, transformed into a country restaurant that combines traditional flavors with an atmosphere that transports us to the past. It is filled with advertisements and collectible items, like wine penguins of all shapes and colors. “The house has a lot of history; the film Funes, un gran amor was shot here,” says the current owner, Gonzalo Córdoba. “I tried to keep the place just as it was before. So, people sit down and go back to those times.”
Tip: Try the homemade osso buco sorrentinos.
Where: Enrique Larreta corner of C.7, Torres, Luján (80 km from CABA).
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Time has stood still in this historic site dating back to 1780, when it was just a relay station. The place still has a thick railing that separated the bartender from the gauchos; on the other side of the counter is Elsa, a well-known tavern keeper in the area. Her family, the Inzaurgarat, has run the tavern since the early 20th century. Francisco, Elsa's grandfather, a Basque-French immigrant, bought the tavern in 1905.
Tip: Be sure to order the cured ham and cheese sandwich, with a vermouth.
Where: Chenaut, Exaltación de la Cruz (approx. 100 km from the Federal Capital).
In the middle of the countryside, at a crossroads connecting Capitán Sarmiento and Route 191, we find this store and bar with over 100 years of history. “San Martín passed through here in 1813,” reads a sketch on the wall. It is one of the most famous stores in northern Buenos Aires, where rural workers, small-town explorers, motorcyclists, and cyclists come to share an aperitif and a chat.
Tip: We recommend trying the criollo barbecue and pairing it properly with wine and soda.
Where: Near San Pedro (150 km from the Federal Capital).
San Antonio de Areco deserves at least a day. There are so many historic spots that it’s hard to choose. One of the most famous is this old general store, over 200 years old, with its slanted facade and original roof still standing. It was owned by the Castex family until 1951, when it was taken over by the Bessonarts, who continue to uphold its legacy and tradition. In the early 2000s, it was almost demolished but survived and is a symbol of endurance worth visiting.
Tip: Locals recommend ordering the knife-cut lamb empanadas. To drink, try a Fernet with Pepsi (Cordobeses, abstain).
Where: Zapiola 151, San Antonio de Areco (113 km from CABA).
This old tavern from 1890 reopened as a country restaurant. Located in one of the most picturesque corners of Uribelarrea, it’s especially recommended to visit in the fall to enjoy the orange and yellow landscape. The house, which is a Historical and Cultural Heritage of the Cañuelas district, retains its original floors and ceilings, and you can sit inside or outside in the sun. There’s also a store to take home local delights like beers, preserves, dulce de leche, honey, and liqueurs.
Tip: Don’t miss the cheese, cold cuts, and pickled boards (Uribelarrea is famous for its appetizers). Also try the barbecue, fried empanadas, and homemade flan, accompanied by the dulce de leche that was chosen Champion of the Dulce de Leche Festival.
Where: Nuestra Señora de Luján corner of Belgrano, Uribelarrea (Cañuelas District), 90 km from CABA.
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Located in the old Casa Terrén building, a general store that existed in Azcuénaga from the late 19th century until 1969. “Our grandfather, Rafael, was one of the members of the company,” say the current owners.
The passage of time, personal situations, and economic changes led the building to cease being family-owned. In the mid-90s, Enrique Coarasa, Rafael’s son, managed to recover the house, but he passed away shortly after. In 2011, his 10 children decided to fulfill his dream. Thus, Almacén CT&Cía was born. “Today, 13 years later, we continue with this challenge along with our children, giving our best to keep growing,” they say.
Tip: Everything they make is delicious; the barbecue, homemade pasta, and appetizers are outstanding. On Saturday nights, they offer seafood and fish.
Where: Terrén and Vildósola, Azcuénaga (about 100 km from CABA).
In a remote area where no more than 5 or 6 families live, you’ll find this magical tavern from 1907, with its tall shelves filled with collectibles, unique furniture, signs, and rural items. It’s run by the Arana family: Norberto Ceferino, his wife Mónica, their 10 children, and some grandchildren keep the tavern tradition alive. Since last year, it’s possible to arrive by train. La Tacuara is right in front of the Lozano station on the Belgrano Sur line, which, thanks to its reactivation, is giving a new boost to tourism in the area.
Tip: Be sure to order the empanadas and homemade pasta from Mónica.
Where: Paraje Lozano, General Las Heras District (approximately 110 km from CABA).
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